Because I have 7 HDD's on that side, no room for the rad. In any event, stay away from the Kraken .. my rad pump died like a month ago and apparently its rampant throughout the line up. I switched to a Cryorig air cooler and believe it or not it actually runs cooler than the Kraken.
Had a QC issue on my X52. Standoffs didnt thread into the backplate correctly. Had to take matters into my own hands with pliers to get it threaded in properly and get 'acceptable temps'. Opened a ticket with NZXT 4 days ago about them sending me a new backplate and standoffs ... havent heard back from them yet.
Thanks!! It was a frustrating (the CPU cooler) but fun build. I have a ticket open with NZXT to see if they will ship me another back plate and standoffs to see if I can get the cooling where i feel it should be. Hopefully they will be accommodating.
My pleasure. If you had a more effective hard drive setup than me such as not using parity and using mirroring (or no fault tolerance) and had your files broken out over various hard drives, I'm sure you could get a lot more streams out of the box. From my experience it really doesn't consume much CPU or RAM, the bottleneck is always the hard drives.
Well .. it comes down to content quality and volume. I'm using a Storage Space in Parity for my media array, so performance isnt great, but its fault tolerant and generally good enough for what i need it for. I can typically handle 3-4 streams without it really affecting anything. These would be 1080 or lower, but usually 1080. If I was doing 4k ... id probably have trouble keeping up with 1 stream and it would be a HDD bottleneck.
So in short, if you would be using it for 1080 streams, max 3-4 simultaneously (id say 3 if you are using the PC yourself for something at the time, 4 if you are not) then yea, this is more than enough. I was doing almost the same thing on my previous box with a 2600k. One of the factoring reasons for this build wasnt the cpu power for this, it was that i needed more storage space and I needed a new case to house the new HDD's.
And actually i have another HDD in there thats not listed since i put it in last minute ... lol :)
Well ... a mullet is business in the front, party in the back .. so this would be a reverse mullet!
Zero issues. I'll commonly have 2+ streams going at once + the VM will be running and i have no gaming issues. I attribute this to the fact that since I have so many HDD's with specific purpose, theres no HDD bottleneck (media on hdd array, os on a separate drive, VM on a separate drive); streaming and running the VM arent very CPU intensive (i was doing the same thing on a 2600k previously with n o real issue) and the UL bandwidth never hurts me.
Most of the time I dont even realize anyone is watching.
try the link again? ive tried it from a few different comps/browsers and cant get it not to work?
I used this strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ADDA6YS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EAHRZEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and added 1 pic so you can see how i got it out of my case. i snipped through some of the honeycomb by the rear fan and ran the extension out of there and ran it down to the strip on the desk
Check out the Fractal Design Node 202.
Nevermind, benchmarks are in. Looks like I'll be sticking with Intel after all :(
Thanks for the input!
The PC07S is interesting. Apart from the price (WOW) the only thing i'll have to get over from a design standpoint if i go with it is the PSU. I didnt like seeing the PSU cables.
The HDD's is an absolute requirement otherwise it would be fairly easy to find a reasonable case. I run a media streaming server so my HDD setup is: 1x SSD for OS/most used stuff, 1x HDD for misc programs/storage, 5x HDD's for media storage array. The Node 804 was perfect. Space for 10 HDD's, not big, cool looking, side window etc .. man .. if they just made an ATX version I would be happy!
be quiet! fans are super quiet. I would check them out.
On sale for $480 at BestBuy
you can run cat5e ~90m without needing something to boost the signal. in a standard house that should be more than enough
You could always do what I did. Scope out a cable run, buy some cat5, keystones and wall plates and make it hard wired :)
The last run I did in my house only cost me about $60 in parts and a little over 2 hours worth of work (i had to go crawling, well more like proning in the attic, yuck).
Wired will always be more reliable and consistent than wireless, so if you are able to, go wired and leave all the headaches behind.
If you dont have any other choice, going with the other adapter would be a good and potentially free test you can do to keep drilling down to the root cause of your issue.
Not $300. Not $600. But in the middle. This is a really good deal on an outstanding gysnc monitor. My friend has one and it is glorious.
Hmm ok. So then it sounds like the rubberbanding is due to a network connectivity issue.
That takes my next thought to, is this an issue with your ISP or you. (Usually its you, and when I say you i mean your network adapter/computer/environment).
I'll assume that so far you have only experienced the issue on your computer and no other devices in your network.
Apart from the obvious of seeing if there is an updated driver for your network adapter, another test would be .. if you can either hard wire your computer, or if you have a computer that is already hardwired you can do the ping test on the hardwired device (if your pc just see if you get the same results/symptoms, if another PC run the ping in parallel and see if the timeout occurs on both computers).
This could further help identify where the issue is coming from.
My gut tells me its probably something to do with the network adapter, but the devil is in the details and I am a proponent of spending time to find the root cause.
If you dont want to /cant go through all of that another simple way to see if its your network adapter would be to go to your local computer store, buy another network adapter and use it for a little while instead of your current one to see if the issue persists. If it fixes it, keep it, if its doesnt, return it. Free testing tool. :)
Boom. Yup, that should do the trick! :)
Thanks for posting that! I do see what you mean now. I'll have to see how it comes together on mine, but I wonder if maybe you could get an extension cable that would be less bulky to try and hide it?
Trident Z has a height of 44mm
you just looking for dimensions?
Vengeance LED is 49mm in height
games often use client side prediction to accommodate for latency/temporary connectivity issues.
its possible the rubberbanding you are seeing is a result of this. One test, could be to run a continuous ping to a reliable host while gaming and when the rubberbanding occurs look at the ping to see any variance in packet loss or response time. That could tell you if your computer is temporarily dropping connection. this is a general test, others may have something a little more targetted you can try.
Honestly, that all depends on the layout of your house. The best thing I can tell you is to do some serious discovery in our home to find the best run path. Look in attics, crawl spaces, see where the wall cavities line up and determine how you can get a cable from point A to point B.
For me, as the start point near my router I have a wall plate that is on the outside wall of a closet, behind the wall plate the cable goes inside the closet tacked the a corner and is ran up and into the ceiling which is an attic space. From there I ran the cable through the attic space until the room I wanted it in was below me. Lucky for me, there was an air return shaft right in that area, so i dropped it down the shaft until it got to the right elevation then moved it horizontally to where I wanted it , capped it and put a wall plate there.
If you are renting, what I can say is that the holes are not large, so if the land lord required that you remove it when you leave for whatever reason, the cable should be easily removed and any holes in drywall easily patched.
In my previous residence, I didnt have a good interior path to run cat5, so I ran it outside along the house. Worked fine, freezing temps in the winter slowed things down slightly. If I had to do it over again that way I would have just looked for some better cable. It does work though.
be quiet! fans are the quietest I have found.
Though if you want RGB/LED, i would look at the Thermaltake Riing fans. based on the spec sheets they are quieter than the NZXT and corsair fans.
I found myself in a similar quandary recently. K55 or Ornata Chroma.
I did some research of my own and although they are both great keyboards I opted for the Ornata Chroma for 3 reasons.
That being said, the Ornata Chroma is 2x the price of the K55, so for the money, the K55 is definitely awesome!
At the end of the day, its just a keyboard. No matter what you choose when you hit a key, its going to respond. This fine tuned granular stuff is mostly just personal preference, and this is just mine.
To add to this, I do IT work and I have seen several customers using powerline adapters (usually small mom and pop type companies) that I have been called into for connectivity/speed issues. The resolve has always been getting them off the powerline adapter.
From personal experience with Powerline adapters .. they are VERY hit or miss (mostly miss). Speeds can be slow, connections can be flaky and overall 'quality' is determined if they are both plugged in fairly close to each other on the same circuit.
If you want to know if it is your ISP, plug directly in to your router and do a speedtest.
In the event its not, you can either look into getting a better wifi setup or see if running some cat5 would be viable. Thats what I did in my house (Router -> Cat5 run -> Wifi AP with ethernet ports) and this has been an ideal setup for me on that side of my house. In the past I tried powerline adapter and wifi repeater, but both were sub par.
do you have a picture so I can see what you are talking about? I'm hoping some cable management will make it 'good enough' I will have a glass side panel.
I think the board itself seems good, but is surprisingly lacking a healthy number of USB 3.1 ports as compared to other Z270 boards from other manufacturers. This ALMOST swayed me to the Gigabyte, then I looked at what I have plugged in USB on my current computer ... keyboard, mouse, phone charger ... if i need to plug in something that will actually make use of the speeds of USB 3.1 .. the ~2 ports the board does offer will be plenty enough for my needs.
Due to lack of responses Im going to stick with my gut and go Asus.
Gotcha, well if you do end up building something, have some fun with it and put it in a Node 202 if you are feeling frisky. Small, not flashy, great case.
Honestly, if just for email and web browsing, why not an Android/iOS tablet? I know several older people who have switched over to tablet from PC with age and they seem to understand the every day use a lot better.
Off topic. I am satisfied with the Supernova G3 as a PSU, but thank you for your input.
You should be able to buy them now. The Premium edition fans are only purchasable via Thermaltake. The link above should get you to there.
I don't currently see links for singles (just 3 packs) for the Premium, but would imagine that it should be available. Just remember though, you get the hub for free with the 3 pack, if you do buy fans individually that means you will have to purchase the hub separately.
Take a look at the Thermaltake Riing RGB Premium fans. I did some comparison between them and the NZXT ones for a rig I am planning and have decided to go with the Riing's. Less costly, lower dB, same general features/looks.
Not sure what 5.0 ext is, a repeater?
Anyway, short of running cable and adding an access point, you could try Google Wifi.
You could also use another repeater .. but meh ...
if you are squeamish about building your own I have found sites like cyberpowerpc.com or ibuypower.com to be good places where you can buy highly customized gaming rigs for much less overhead than you would find with any of the big name brands. They will even OC for you. Just my 2 cents.
+1 for removing McAffe ... that hasnt been anything but paid bloatware in years.
I assume this is for gaming? The best gaming laptop is a desktop imho. I have seen too many people over the years unsatisfied with laptop performance and step up to desktop and never look back.
That being said, for a laptop, something with a SSD or at the least a hybrid drive would be a nice boost in performance, 5400 RPM drives ... ehhh ..
Looks reasonable. I would just bump up to a larger SSD. I have a 120GB in my current rig that i built ~4 years ago and space gets tight from time to time and I have to juggle what I want on the SSD vs the mechanical drive.
If staying in budget is absolutely necessary, you can compromise on the keyboard and get a Corsair K55 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard, which will save you $75 to put elsewhere into the rig for some breathing room.
Depends on your budget and how big of a SSD you can swing. Looks like smitty05 just commented a build that includes a 250GB SSD and a 2TB mechanical. That should give you plenty of storage and options.
For reference, I'm using an old 120GB intel SSD on my rig and I have just enough room for the OS, my profile and ~2 games on it. All the spillover goes to my mechanical. A 250GB will give you plenty more room.
My preference would be for a samsung 850 evo. Good speeds, reasonable prices, highly rated. Not as fast as M.2 and some others, but I feel is a good compromise and especially if you are coming from a mechanical drivve then really anything will simply blow that away.
On my current rig I have a SSD for the OS and a few of my favorite games and the rest i have on a mechanical. A compromise for me until I get a SSD with larger capacity.
Also, there were (not sure if there still are) issues with 170 boards using M.2 drives as boot drives. Supposed to be all fixed in the 270 boards, so I second going with a 270.