Yup, only twice though, and only once was a full build. The other time was just consulting for parts/planning, the client did the rest of the work himself.
It is scary at first but you get used to it. The biggest problem you'll face is not leaks, but rather, it's the big money sink hole once you begin this journey.
One over-budget computer at a time.
would love to! They're so fun
With all that power comes all that responsibility. She likes her Uncle Ben, so I guess nothing lmao.
My wife doesn't game, she doesn't use any programs that needs GPU processing power, so there's really no point of getting a new GPU. She's also very sentimentally attached to this card, so she insisted on not changing it. Plus, it doesn't make sense to spend more for an upgrade that wasn't going to be used.
I'm contributing to the cause to solve the world's over population crisis. Thank me later
A beast of it's time, yup
I'm no scientist so I don't know the details behind how exactly positive air pressure but I copy and pasted from an article I found that seems to make sense to me:
"Chassis with positive air pressure can prevent dust from penetrating into the chassis by use of filters on intake fans and forcing air out of the chassis through unfiltered vents and gaps. On the other hand, a chassis with negative air pressure draws in air from unfiltered vents and gaps that even with fan filters placed on key intake fans, dust can penetrate into the chassis easily."
And yes, the case does have a dust filter at the top, underneath the panel so it's not visible. But it's on there.
Thanks! The camera used was a Nikon D850
Visuals arent everything, its usually true for PC building. But it actually is for custom hardline loops. 99% of people who do custom hard loops do it for looks. I mean these hardline loops start at 500 to 600usd, youd certainly be better off just using that money to upgrade components.
You missed the fact that in this particular scenario for my system, it was purposely done achieve positive air pressure. Dust accumulation is more important to me than a 1 to 2c temperature (Note that there were many tests done to show that push/pull configs have a negligible difference in temperature performance).
Though you are correct if I had switched the orientation of the fans, I may have gotten a marginal temperature decrease at the expense of sacrificing positive air pressure.
She got a new camera that shoots raw files that are around 70-80mb. It's actually quite tough for her 4790k to handle photos of this size in lightroom.
She actually offered to buy me a 2080ti during xmas but I turned her down. Shes amazing (the wife, that is).
Thanks for the compliment! I took these shots using my wife's 150mm macro lens that she usually uses to photograph flowers,
Thanks, it really is pretty cool (pun intended).
That's exactly how the airflow is for this system. But you can also mount fans at the floor of the case.
Tthese cases are phenomenal for watercooling, I've done 2 already and planning a 3rd. I'm coming from building custom loops Phanteks and Fractal Design, and hands down I'll say that this case is just so much better for watercooling. That's not to case it's perfect case, in fact far from it. But I still love it.
Dunno, but I've seen run 2 Minesweepers together though.
Yes, it's one thing that I couldn't do because I could've get a pin removal tool for fan headers. But I plan to do this when I do maintenance.
Thanks, it's actually got lots of RGB lighting but it's only set to one colour. Personally just can't stand the rainbow style lighting
Those are supposed to be filters, these particular style are from Barrow. But I took out the mesh/filter so they're just for show.
Loop goes like this: Pump>GPU>Radiator>Into the back>CPU>Into the back again>Reservoir>Pump
I hope that explains it
Thanks man! And ya, lot's of memories with that card - it's my first watercooled card.
Thanks man :)
Thank you so much!
The material of the decal is vinyl. The plastic is 4mm thick cast acrylic sheet; I got the colour using spray paint.
For decal, you can check out ETSY.com or your local custom sticker store. The cast acrylic is available on Amazon.
I don't have the measurements on hand, I just measured it according to the opening of the PSU.
The potential issue is that the site doesn't have the cooler I'm using on its list of parts as it's a fairly new cpu block.
Yes, it's the Gerton. The desk frame is an Autonomous sit/stand desk.
Thank bud! May our feline buddies be in a better place, Gotta say man, I was so depressed when he just passed I couldn't get out of bed, didn't have motivation to do anything...but planning and working on these builds really helped me move pass the pain.
Which case do you have? And tbh, I tihnk mounting to radiators isn't the MMRS' strong suite =/
Have you checked out monsoon's reservoir radiator-mount bracket?
I'd say that's your best bet if you're looking to mount it to the radiator.
Thanks bro, he was the best
:) My wife's rig is also running MMRS res and fittings, gonna clean it up and take photos one of these days
Let me know if you have questions, Monsoon has made some good quality stuff :)
Just a game one headset...not really got into audio
Thanks! I just did a lowly 4.5. it runs at mid50s to low 60s at max load - but is really quiet though. I have the fans set to lowest rpm. Since the rig sits on my desk, I'm trying to prioritize noise.
Thanks, the name is very special to me :) ! I really took my time with these photos. Photography is my passion :)
I think a lot of great builds here on PCPP lack quality photos, Proper photos could really make a build 'pop'.
Thanks! And yup, that's the case.
Glad I can help :)
That cuz you're a crazycatman too, isn't it? lol
Well I got the LED strip for free...it's the new one from phanteks, a lot brighter than the NZXT Hue+ strips, and it's directly connected to the case. It can controlled by the button in the front.
And because the case is windowed on both sides, I used the NZXT hue to light up the back side.
Always go with plastidip. Non plastidip paints will 100% void your warranty. So unless you're 100% confident that you won't need warranty, or you won't need to resell, stick with plastidip.
If you have the glossy finish, but the plastidip glossifier. Add a few layers of glossifier and your paintjob can be very glossy.
Still around, just they are now called 'mainframecustoms'
A few more things, have a few back up wires and terminals ready on hand...because there's a good chance a few cables may not survive the operation of sleeving. I know I ****** a few wires but I have a bunch of these cables lying around, but if I didn't, I would've been screwed.
I also bought a Thermaltake Doctor 2 PSU tester, I tested the cables after every double-wire solder I did just to be on the safe side.
Anyways, here are some photos of the end result
My Gosumod Alliance combs cables
The wife's MFC Stealth combos cables:
I sleeved two sets of cables, one for myself, and one set for my wife.
The ways I did them were different, it depends on the sleeving you use, as well as the cable combs you use.
I used the teleios sleeving from Mainframe Customs for our cables.
For combs, I used the GOSUmod Alliance combos for myself:
for my wife, the MFC stealth combs:
The aluminium (i think?) Gosumod combs look great, but have a ****** design flaw. Their inner clearance is too tight, and will completely rip up whatever sleeved cables you feed them - I learned this the hard way. In order for them to work, I had to file the insides down a GREAT amount, because I had to file them down, the opening was significantly bigger and permitted me to just superglue and jam the double wires into one sleeving, with a split going down the end towards the PSU. Although I filed them, because it was on the inside, cosmetically they were still top - notch.
The MFC stealth combs are plastic (I think?), and I didn't want to file them. So I soldered the two wires using the technique demonstrated by Chris from Lutro customs on Youtube:
In the end, I guess either way works - super glue or solder. It just depends on the clearance of your combs. Super glue method takes about 10 minutes per double wire; Soldering taking about 20 minutes per double wire (lol I'm slow).
I don't think it matters, and here's why:
I have had 4 different PSUS from EVGA - the P2 1000, G2 1000, G2 850, and G2 650. Between theese, 3 of them had different routing. Yet, the cables can be used interchangeably.
I also have the EVGA custom sleeving set, and Cablemod's P2/G2 replacement cable set, these works with all G2/P2 psus. And funny enough, they also have a different routing. Both EVGA's and Cablemod's replacement cables are routed 1 to 1, 2 to 2...n..n (Unlike the stock cables).
Although I haven't personally tested this, I just kept with the original routing when I did my own re-sleeving of the stock cables.
Here is the link:
Nice poem lol