One way to do it is to look up GCF's Arctic InWin 301 build on youtube. I'll try to link it below but don't know if the link will work.
Do you not realize that there is a back exhaust fan too? Having only exhaust fans is even worse for a system, because there would be negative pressure, resulting in dust buildup and also worse temps overall. Also, hot air rises, so it will still go out through the top vent without a fan there.
From personal experience, I would avoid cheap cooler master fans, especially ones with sleeve bearings like this one has. They are pretty noisy, especially over time once the bearing wears out and isn't refillable. Look for, at least, a ball bearing fan. Preferred brands would be something like cougar, be quiet, fractal design, ekwb, noctua, and some corsairs. Super cheap fans will just give you a headache making vibrations and all sorts of noises so just spend $10-$15 on a quality fan.
Yeah custom sleeves and cut to length cables would look amazing in this case. I'm not sure if the ekwb AIO would fit without modding the front rad/fan bracket though, because that is quite a big AIO.
I get around 70-75 C when gaming. My front fans are in pull configuration and there is about 1/2 inch or so of clearance for airflow. It isn't much, but it's enough to work. My fans are set to run to 50% and cooling is adequate.
I have the 750 G3 and have found it to be basically silent paired with my 4770k 980 TI rig. My brother has a RM850x and it's also silent. I think the G3 is better though because it has more flexible cables, smaller form factor, eco button. Also, all the cables are sleeved, and IIRC, the RMX sata/molex power are flat instead of sleeved, which is worse for cable management and aesthetics imo.
I'd really advise against cable extensions in this case as it's very tight on space and you need to keep the back as clean as possible for hot air to ventilate out the side vents. Also, if you really want to make the switch, you should get an AIO, as this case is designed for one. Bottom intake and front/back exhaust would likely result in poor CPU cooling with an air cooler.
I came from the Define S to the InWin 301 myself. My Define S ATX build was great and all but I just fell in love with the 301 when I saw it and I really wanted something smaller for my desk. I went and bought a used micro ATX board that would fit with my cpu and ram. I will say thermals and noticeably worse in the 301 with my 4770k and 980 TI, but it was still worth it i'd say. A word of advice if you will be downsizing to this case: make sure your components (especially PSU and GPU). If you have a long PSU, your cable management will be very difficult (especially if it's non-modular). I also had to swap out my monster Zotac 980 TI for a smaller 980 TI, as that one wouldn't even fit in the case, let alone clear my radiator in the front. One last thing, my Define S was loaded with silent 140mm fans, which I was unable to use. This case ONLY support 120mm fans.
Came expecting an EVGA SR-2. Was disappointed.
They are by the ram slot and go up to the CPU 8 pin cutout on the case.
Just when I thought I had a nice looking Inwin 301 build, I see this beautiful pc. Nice job +1
Don't you think all those exhaust fans are a bit excessive? Considering your only intake is quite restricted, you probably have serious negative pressure in your case.
27mm will definitely fit but you will have to mod the bracket for it to mount to radiator on the inside of it.
It is impossible to fit the radiator on the back of the bracket without modding it. If you look at my 4th picture, you can see that the bracket is enclosed from the top, so it wouldn't be possible to for the top of the radiator to fit. You can probably saw that part off, but only if you want to do that kind of modding. Otherwise, I think a 30mm radiator should fit, but it would certainly be tight. Personally, I think it looks cooler when you can see the rad, instead of having it hidden behind the bracket.
Yeah I tried 3 GPUs until I found one that fits well lol. The h100i v2 has damn good performance but it is pretty loud. Not as bad as first gen corsairs, but I am still eyeing the EK Vardar fans that have class leading static pressure while also being very silent. My brother has some in his build.
Idle temps for idle vary between 30-40°c on CPU and 30-35°c for GPU. At load, both go to about 75°c with GPU default curve and CPU fans at 40%. GPU stays pretty cool at idle always because the case fans are blowing fresh air right at it.
I wouldn't recommend that setup because you will have a hot box. I tried 3 intake 2 exhaust and the case is so restrictive that hot air wouldn't really get out and the case was so hot you can't even tough it after long gaming sessions. From my experience, its best to have 2 bottom intake and all the rest as exhaust.
No fan hub.. Also no case fans either
That is one of the cleanest custom loops I have ever seen.
Due to the poor airflow characteristics of this case, I had to change the rear fan from intake to exhaust, because the case itself was becoming very hot to the touch. It was a hot box because there was insufficient exhaust through the rad and side exhaust. My GPU temps only get to about 70-75 C and CPU between 60-70. Also, the case is only warm now and not hot like before. I would recommend making 2 front exhaust and 1 rear exhaust. 2 bottoms as intake. There is no negative pressure because the side exhaust is so restricted.
It would be unwise to make the front be your intake because there is no dust filter. IN WIN made the case so you would make the bottom be your intake so they put dust filters in the bottom. I think the best setup for this case is 2 x 120 bottom intake, 1 x 120 rear intake, 2 x 120 front exhaust. If you run all the fans at minimum rpm, you will have a silent machine. This way, you would have cool air for both your cpu and gpu. Also, you would need a Silverstone magnetic dust filter for the rear intake fan so you don't get dust. Regarding the leds, they are powered by a separate sata power so all you have to do is not plug it in to have the leds not light up.
Actually, not really any dust on the filter yet. It is quite coarse so I'm not sure how well it will stop dust particles, so I will have to give it some more time and see how it performs. I think IN WIN did this because the case doesn't have very good airflow to start with, but a guess its better than no dust filter.
In my build, I put 2 intake fans on bottom and 1 intake fan on back. I plan to get a magnetic dust filter for the back fan. My front has 2 fans to exhaust from my aio.
Hey man you have your fans set up incorrectly. Your intake fans should be from the bottom; that's why there is a dust filter there. The front is supposed to be exhaust. If you don't believe me, check your manual that came with the case. The way you have it now, you will be getting a dusty system and not optimal airflow resulting in potentially higher temps than you could be getting.
You are right! Had no idea what that metal thing was... Will have to try it out
The fans screw in to the rad and have about a 1/2" gap to the front panel. The air then goes around and comes out the side through the vents. That is why its important to try keeping the back as clean as possible to maximize airflow.
I usually put a Lego under the GPU, but because this card is kinda short and is right over the fans, that's kinda difficult. I will have to think of something later for it but its not too bad right now.
Exactly my thoughts
I like the look of Fractal cases also (had a Define S), but I wanted to get a case with tempered glass, which Fractal doesn't offer yet. Also, this build is made from a lot of parts that I already had. I didn't want to get a new CPU and RAM, so I just got a different mobo. Disregard the recommended prices on PCPP. I played much less for my build. I got the CPU for only $180.
I had 4690k @ 4.6 and that was bottlenecking my single 980 ti at 1080p 144hz gaming in most games. Don't believe what people say when they say an i5 will never bottleneck anything. This is only true at 60hz gaming, so if you are trying to drive super high frame rates you need an i7. I bet this guy bottlenecks his 1070 sli more than he thinks, since he is trying to do 1080p gaming at 180hz. In a lot of games, I rarely saw gpu usage above 80% in games like project cars until I bought a 4770k and overclocked it.
Thanks.. I never updated it, but it now has a full sleeved hx1050 and gtx 970, so it looks even better now.
One word: punctuation.
Can you give any input on gtx 970 SLI vs single 1070 performance? I have a single 970 right now it isn't cutting it on my 1080p 144hz monitor. I know everyone says to upgrade to the best single GPU, but I'd like to know how the performance difference between me getting a second 970 or buying a 1070 from someone who has actually had both setups.
All you need now is a set of fully sleeved cables and it will be perfect. +1
Couldn't make the noctua fans match the PC so made the PC to match the noctua fans. +1
Op already has an h60. He wants to get rid of it because small aios are worse than good air coolers. Corsair aios in general are all very loud.
I personally think the Cryorig c1 looks really cool.
I guess I didn't realize how little space the air 240 has. You could probably try to find the biggest itx cooler and try to fit that. The ones that at flat to your motherboard.
Are you looking for a different cooling option die to acoustics? I also had the first gen H80 and that thing is far too loud. If this is the reason, I'd recommend jumping to a Cryorig H7, even if you lose a tiny bit of cooling. Performance.
Do you even cable management not even once !!
This is the best source for psu research
Good job with cable management on the back. Most people with extensions have an absolute mess and many people don't even post the backside of their PCs on here probably for that reason. +1
I had to change the one on my hx1050 because it's a first gen corsair with fan off technology and it's method of cooling was to set the fan to 100% until it cools down. Takes 5-10 sec but it sounds like a turbine. This was every few minutes while gaming so I had to replace that with a quieter one, but a brand new 650i should not have anything wrong with the fan. They should be very quiet already. There are very few instances where you would want to replace the PSU fan.
EVGA sells sleeved kits of any color for I think $90. You can also buy a custom kit with custom lengths and custom color design from cablemod.com, or, of course, you can sleeve new cables yourself to save some money. Singularitycomputers has a fantastic in depth guide on cable sleeving so I'd recommend going from there if this is the path you want to take.
Excellent Cable management where it counts. In the future, i'd highly recommend buying a fully sleeved cable kit. I had extensions and recently moved to full sleeved and it is so much better !!
Please don't get the overrated hyper 212 Eco. The performance isn't bad by any means, but there are better coolers for the price, like the Cryorig H7.
Yo man, show us a picture if the back. We want to see your cable management, even if it's not great.
That's good to hear. I love civ 5 as well, but it isn't really a demanding game.
How do you like the 660 SLI? Do you ever run out of VRAM and stutter? I had a 660 and was torn between getting one more for $80 to sli or selling mine and buying something new. I went with a 4gb gtx 770 because I was too concerned about VRAM. Now I have a 970 but I am wondering how the 660 SLI still performs.