From the sound of it, it's your PSU. When power issues arise the first place I look is the PSU. There is a chance that the controller on your motherboard, that controls fan speed, power, etc, has gone bad, but I would test with a new PSU first.
You may not have the "latest and greatest," but I certainly wouldn't call it a mess. You have a good build going for you. Nothing is unbalanced and you took the time to give a nice presentation with good photos and cable management. I've see build on here that cost three times as much and it looked like they literally just upended the parts boxes, dumped the components in the case and called it a day.
I love it. It's refreshing to see some originality here. +1 for sure.
Are you still on W7?
You're going to have to explain your problem a bit more clearly. As stated it's rather confusing.
Yeah, uninstall that piece of junk and set everything in the UEFI. I've got a Z97 Sabertooth and have tried using that software 2-3 times. Each and every time I used it something got messed up. From PWM fans showing up as DC only fans to forcing the GPU fans to stay 100% every time I start the machine. IMO Asus software is not very good.
I've never seen a company refuse an RMA because of a rebate. They pay the rebate anyways.
Very creative. Def +1.
If it's anything like an Ubi game it never will be.....Very nice build though.
I like it. Well done.
I was going to say something, but it looks like it's all been said.....
Since the pc you are putting the GPU into is a custom solution from Dell I can't look into the specs of the system and motherboard. Ensure that the PSU that is in the system can handle the card, check the manual for any specific BIOS setting that may need to be changed in order to support the expansion card.
Aside from the normal stuff like;
updating the BIOS (if needed)
updating all other drivers (if needed)
updating things like the chipset, IME (if it's and Intel board)
and a good virus scan
You may want to grab Display Driver Uninstall to remove remnants of other display drivers that may be in there.
If you're still having issues you can grab Who Crashed and Blue Screen View. These are two handy programs I've used that have helped me to diagnose BSOSs.
What kind of crash are we talking about? Lock up? BSOD, etc?
Good build with good parts selection, although if you're going to go to the trouble of taking pictures of your build to show it off you may want to do a little listing first. Other than that +1.
Any time. Good luck with the build and should you have any problems in the future feel free to reach out.
Yeah, there's a loose connection or short in there somewhere.
I've found it to be well worth the price. I've used it for myself and more than a few times for client builds.
When you say "shut down," was is a controlled shut down? i.e. BSOD? or was it a sudden and total loss of power? If so then it's obviously a power issue. Definitely check your 3.3, 5, and 12 volt readings in the BIOS. Also, check the physical connections on the PSU, motherboard, GPU, etc. If your still having trouble grab a multimeter, there pretty cheap, jump the PSU and test them manually.
Don't use device management to tell you what drivers are updated or not. It's notoriously incorrect. Do you use Steam? If so you may want to look at Driver Fusion. I use it quite frequently for clients to find weird or obscure drivers that need to be updated. It will scan all of your hardware, motherboard, etc, download the most recent drivers and install them.
Also, if you are getting BSODs (blue screen of death) you may want to get the following two programs;
Who Crashed and Blue Screen View.
Both are very helpful in troubleshooting BSODs.
Yes, let it get to 100% three times. If you don't see any errors reported, it'll tell you if there are any, then the memory should be good to go.
If you're satisfied that you've tested the memory properly and that everything is up to spec lets move on. Next, boot without your GPU installed. Make sure all your drivers are up to date, and not just your GPU. Go to the motherboard site and get all the latest drivers. Intel ME, Sata, basically any driver that applies to your motherboard. Check that your BIOS is up to date as well. Also check that windows has been fully up dated and run through a full system anti-virus/anti-malwae scan.
Go grab the trial version, or buy the full version as it's not too expensive, of Aida64 Extreme. It's a lot better than Prime95 for stress testing. Install it and start up a test using the CPU, FPU, Cache, and memory checked. As it's running monitor your temperatures, specifically the CPU Package. At stock frequency and voltage it should not exceed 105 deg c. At stock, if it exceeds 85deg c then there may be a thermal issue we need to investigate. It should not get anywhere close to that. Run the stress test until it crashes. Take not of the time and type of crash. If it's minor instability Aida64 will log it and shut down the test automatically. When/ if it crashes at all stock settings go into Computer Management, Event Viewer and start pouring through system and application events around the time of the crash.
Shiva Kamini Soma Kandarkram!!!!!!
No worries. I did that on my first build. Thought I had a bad PSU.
Start with the basics first. Leave the motherboard outside of the case on a non-conductive surface, such as the card board box it came in. With the CPU, heatsink, and memory installed plug in the 24 pin atx and the 8 pin eps (cpu power) cables to the motherboard. Using the onboard video output from the motherboard hook up your monitor and the keyboard. Once that's done turn on the power supply, i.e. make sure the power switch on the back of the power supply is flipped to the on position then turn on the motherboard via the onboard power button.
With this setup you'll be able to ensure that your motherboard will at least POST properly and know that the core components work properly.
No, but I've heard it's still causing issues for some people. I would still highly recommend running through the memory test though.
Very good looking build you have there. +1. Well done.
From your description it sounds like it is most likely a memory issue. Especially if you're blue screening with "memory management" errors. This could be caused by a few thing; a bad stick of memory, a bad DIMM slot on your board or the DIMMs being put into the wrong DIMM slots.
Ok. Forget the Windows one. It's crap. Use this. (http://www.memtest.org/#downiso) Download the pre-compiled ISO. Burn it to disc or use your program of choice to create a bootable USB drive.
First consult your motherboard manual to find the primary DIMM slots for you motherboard. Take one stick of memory and populate the first primary slot.
Boot to the USB or CD you made and follow the on screen instructions, they're very easy. Let the test run through 3 passes. Exit and repeat the process and test each stick in each memory slot individually. You'll have to run a lot of tests and it is rather time consuming, but it needs to get done. Make sure you keep a log of which stick you are testing in which slot so you'll be able to know if its a bad stick or a bad slot.
Looks good. Good job on the mod.+1
What memory diagnostics program did you use? Is it the one that comes with windows?
I doubt that it is a BIOS issue. Your most likely suspect is the card itself or the PSU. Since you are using an Intel platform I recommend removing the GPU and booting to the OS using the integrated GPU on the CPU. Run some some basic stress test. Aida64 extreme, Cinebench etc to test the CPU, motherboard and memory just to make sure there are no issues there. This will also ensure that the monitor and cable you are using up working properly.
One thing you'll want to check is in the BIOS. On one of my old boards if I switched between iGPU and a pGPU (integrated vs peripheral) I had to manually change it in the BIOS otherwise wouldn't get any video signal output. There was no auto selection, but every board I've used since then does it automatically.
Once you've checked the BIOS and put the new card in check you PSU cable connections. Take all at the cables out and give them a good visual inspection. Check the wires, the terminal and the PSU it self for any signs of shorting, sparking, etc. Plug every thin back up making sure the cables are properly seated. If it still doesn't work try using different ports on the PSU
First a few questions;
Is this a new build?
Have you used other GPU's in this build and have they worked?
What kind of "freezing" are we talking about? Is it temporary, if so how long does it last. Is it permanent to the point that a forced reset of the whole system is required?
Have you experienced this "freezing" on any other 3D applications?
Simple, clean, and a nice presentation. +1
I went with 120's because the difference between the 140's and the 120's is minimal. The 140's are a little louder at the same RPM and were a few dollars more expensive at the time I bought them.
Good choices. Looking forward to seeing some pictures of the completed build.
Thanks so much. I wouldn't say better, just a bit different.
Thanks so much. I really need to take some updated photos. I've changed a good bit of it.
Nice build. Looks a bit like mine. Good work.
You're going to need to be a bit more specific. What exactly is flashing, what are you doing when it is flashing, etc?
Use this, (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/media-creation-tool-install)
Windows installation media creation tool. It'l allow you to make a bootable usb or an ISO file. As long as you have your/a valid Windows 7/8/8.1 product key it'll work just fine.
Ok. Feel free to get back to us if you're still having issues.
If you install the older driver I would first wipe any remnants of the new driver with something like display driver uninstaller. (http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html)
If you are having issues with the new drivers I would want to make sure that any and all registry entries, dill's etc are removed. Once that's done you can install a clean older driver and know that you are really starting from scratch.
I've been away for a few days. Has this issue been resolved?
What motherboard/sound card do you have? What OS are you using? Have you checked the sound drivers?
Does the motherboard successfully pass POST? Are you able to get the OS to start booting?
Ok, lets try to narrow somethings down. When you say 'crash' what exactly do you mean? Is it a lock up of the system, just the application, do you get a BSOD, Etc? The more specific you are the easier our troubleshooting will be.
I have an Asus Z97 Saber and I know that in one of the UEFI menus there is a 'Boot from PCI-e' option. Not sure if it is the same for the Z170 Asus boards.
The difference between the Quiet Edition and the Performance Edition is just the RPM limit. The quite edition stops at 1100 RPM while the Performance Edition goes to 1650. Now most times people don't run their fans at 100%, because of the noise, so the extra 550 RPM doesn't really matter anyways.
While I can't tell you how hot your particular chip will be, I can tell you that the temperature difference between those two particular fans will minimal at best. Now, if you where to compare them to something like EK Vardar, or Delta fans the temperature difference would be much more noticeable, but then so would the noise.
It really comes down to personal preference. If you are using the h100i gtx then the only real requirement is the size. 120mm. After that its up to you. People will tell you that "you have to have high static pressure fans for good performance." You don't. In all the tests I've done, using air flow optimized vs pressure optimized fans on a radiator/heatsink, the temperature difference was minimal at best. Unless you're the kind of person who is measuring and tracking every single degree just grab ones that are the right size, and if you're doing a theme build, then ones that match the theme.
Not quite sure what your question is. "How should I begin?"
As far as the fans go, any that are optimized for static pressure will work. The Corsair SP series will do. Any fans of the appropriate size will work though. Even fans that are optimized for air flow will work. The difference in performance will be minimal.