I'm diggin the yellow lights. Nice change from the the usual red, blue white, etc
My suggestion is to start from scratch with either W7 or W10. W7 does support USB 3. With respect to the drivers, get them from your motherboard vender. Not from Intel.
Did you try a "skeleton" build? I.e mother board out of the case. CPU, thermal paste and heatsink install. One stick of ram. PSU 24 pin and 8 pin EPS connected properly. Video out from the motherboard. If you cannot get to the bios from there then there is a core component problem. More than likely the motherboard.
If the only thing left over from the prior build is the GPU and HDD then it's one of those. With the error your getting from watching netflix and stuff then I'd say it's almost certainly the GPU.
Yeah you can put them on there. Not sure how that fan hub is configured to work as it looks like all but one head is a four pin header. Which mean that any fan connected to the three pin headers will be missing the PWM pin and will only be on voltage control. Check the manual.
As long as the connector is orientated correctly with the header just place the connector directly over and against the header and apply a little pressure. Just make sure the connector is orientated correctly. If you look at the connector there should be a blank spot where a pin cannot go in. This will align wth a blank spot on the header. It should take a little force to get it to seat properly, but not much.
Yes. I recommend getting the latest drivers and software directly from AMD. Don't use the disc in the box. 90% it's out of date by the time they put it in the box.
When you say "I cannot get anything at all to turn on without shorting" do you mean via the front panel power button?
I assume you created a bootable USB from the windows tool and are trying to reinstall from that? Can you grab a picture of the error and at what point in the process it occurs?
Absolutely. If you like it, keep it.
Looks great!! Except for the LEDs. You've got some really nice components in there and they deserve some subtle accent lighting not the Vegas Strip treatment. Just my opinion though. Really nice presentation and originality with the black and white photos.
There might be a PCIe bracket misalignment. It happens in less expensive cases sometimes. If it fits not problem while the motherboard is outside of the case I'd recommend removing the motherboard, put the case on it's side, install the GPU into the motherboard and install the motherboard and GPU at once into the case and see if you can get it to line up that way.
If that spot really does mean standard and the fan works on both low and high I would say more than likely. I would double check the motherboard manual and also try with another fan.
That fan control switch will be based on voltage control. If the S isn't providing enough startup voltage for the type of fan you're using then it won't start up.
Yes, Titanfall 2 is capped at 144 on PC. https://gamerant.com/titanfall-2-pc-fps-cap/
I'm going to assume that your using the video output on the GPU when testing it and have the appropriate input on the monitor selected? Seems basic, but people have made that mistake. Also check your options in the BIOS. I had a Z77 MSI board and had to manually select between dGPU and iGPU every time I switched.
You may also have a faulty USB 3 port or cable from the front panel. You could check this by getting a USB 3 to USB 2 header adapter. Something like this. If you're still having issues then you know it's the cable or port on the front panel. If you it goes away then you know it's an issue with the PCH on the motherboard.
I have two recommendations for you.
1-Boot to safe mode and run Display Driver Uninstaller. It'll wipe all old display drivers. Reinstall the Nvidia drivers. If you've already done this then disregard.
2- Get an SSD for you games. At least the ones you play the most. A lot of new games will load assets as you play.
Your "Page Fault" error is related to system memory so you may have a module going bad on you. Boot to a thumb drive with Memtest 86+. http://www.memtest.org/#downiso and run it a few time to check your memory.
In addition to updating the USB 3 drivers check the chipset drivers. If those are up to date then you've probably got a faulty USB 3 hub which would require a replacement motherboard.
Check your motherboard manual. It should have a list off all POST codes.
When you install the programs you should have the option to install them to a different location when you select the custom install option instead of the default install options. Not all programs give you this option though. Some programs have to be installed to the boot drive to work properly.
I assume this "crackling" noise is coming from the speakers and/or headphones? It's sounds like EMI on the motherboard. Aside from changing out the mother board, your best option is an external DAC/AMP set up. I recommend Schiit Audio. They make some very good and affordable DACs and AMPs.
Did you create a bootable drive or disc with the ISO?
Start with a memory test. Memtest 86+. Boot to either a cd/dvd or thumb drive and let it run for at least 3 passes. If you see any errors at all that means you either have a bad memory module or dimm slot. Test each stick independently and each dimm slot independently. If no errors check your system files and repair if needed.
If you're still having issues boot into safe mode and try and replicate the problem. If no issues then it's probably a driver issue and not on OS issue. If you're still getting the BSOD in safe mode then it's either a OS issue (reinstall needed) or a motherboard/CPU issue. Remove the GPU, boot with 1 stick of ram into safe mode and try to replicate the BSOD. If you're still having issues then its a CPU/Motherboard problem.
Do you get any BSODs with the crashing?
Did you try the sfc /scannow?
Grab Blue Screen View and Who Crashed. Both can help troubleshoot BSODs.
Here you go. Memtest86+
You can burn the ISO to a cd or create a bootable usb drive.
Start with scanning your memory with memtest 86 and system files via sfc/ scannow. Something may have gotten botched in the update.
I would start by taking the fan from the cooler and plugging it into a different header on the motherboard and boot into the UEFI and see if the fan spins up. If it doesn't then its a DOA fan and that is why you're getting the error. If it does spin up on another header and not the CPU fan header then you may have a bad header on the MOBO and it'll need to get RMAed.
For the most part when you change hardware windows will detect the new hardware and move on just fine, with the exception of the motherboard and/or the CPU. With these two components it can be hit or miss with W operating normally after the installation of new hardware. If you're having BSODs after the new CPU was installed then your first step should be to install a fresh copy of windows.
Sounds like your optical sensor is shot. Time for a new mouse.
I'd reinstall the firmware and if you have any macros in the Corsair utility see if one of them is F'd up. I had a K65RGB and hated it. Constant screw ups it the Corsair software and it would always cause my system to not pass POST.
Since you switched GPUs I'd suggest running disply driver uninstaller and wiping any display drivers still on your system. Drop a fresh copy in there and see how that does.
You don't "need" more fans, but as a general rule I'd say at a minimum 2 fans total. One intake. One exhaust.
Along with the advice of Scotty0709, if you've not done a clean install of your OS in the last year I'd recommend that. I know it's a right pita, but after a year your OS can become a real mess and have a dramatic impact on a lot of things.
What exactly do you mean by "turn my graphics down?"
Yep, FreeNAS can be kind of a RAM hog.
And it never happens when the controller is set to high?
It's tough to diagnose over the web, but if your system works just fine without the fan controller plugged in or only set to high, I'd guess that the fans or controller itself has a short in it and the PSU is shutting down to protect the rest of the system.
To help diagnose this I'd unplug the fan controller and the front fans, throw some stress testing to the CPU, Memory and GPU. Just to ensure that the problem doesn't stem from any of your core components. If all test complete or run for an hour or so then we know the issue is with the system fans or fan controller. If that's the case then I'd take the fans plug them directly to the motherboard and let them run while doing more stress testing, gaming or general use type stuff. If no issues there then we know it should be the controller. If you have extra case fan, try to connecting them to the controller and if the issue repeats then it's almost 100% the controller that is causing the issue.
What fans do you have connected to the controller?
When you say it crashes, you mean it just shuts off like a sudden power loss?
It should've switched automatically, but as long as it's working.
I can't speak for this board, but I do have the Z97 version. Have you tried a bare-bones test boot? I.e. just CPU, CPU cooler, 1 stick of ram, and video connection directly to your mobo? If not, start there to ensure there are not issues with the core components.
I'd try to do a full re-install of the software then. If that doesn't work open a ticket with NZXT. I stopped using the CAM software a while back because the GPU overclocking tab kept disappearing. I'd install CAM and it was there, then two day later it would just disappear. Reinstall and the same thing happens. I really liked the software though.
Usually I don't recommend people update their BIOS unless they absolutely have to, but you may want to look into that.
Most likely the problem is related to the lack of video memory. All of those things, games desktop GUI, menu bar, all take up video memory. While the desktop GUI, menu bar, etc don't take up a lot, when you couple that with the gaming, it's just too much data to read/write back and forth to the system memory. And writing/reading to the system memory is a lot slower that a pGPU reads/writes to vRAM.
Once you get a pGPU you should see the issue go away.
Chances are you're out of video memory. That card only has 2Gb/1Gb DDR3 or 1Gb GDDR5. Not very much. You probably have stuff still in video memory that's taking up those resources. Check what tasks, apps, and services you have running and shutdown the unneeded ones.
You may want to start again.
Remove the CPU and make sure it's positioned in the socket correctly. The retention arm should take a little force to secure, but not too much. If you have to really force it down, more than 2-3 pounds of pressure, then something is wrong. Re-install the CPU cooler.
Check the ram again. Make sure it is seated properly. It should be a snug fit.
Connect the PSU 24 pin and 8 pin EPS connectors.
Hook up the HDMI cable directly to the motherboard.
Boot into the UEFI/BIOS.
If you can get into the bios you should be good to go from there. If not then something is amiss. Get back to us.
When you install the CAM software it should have given you the option to install additional drivers, i.e. Hue+, Grid+, and Kraken. If you didn't see them there is an option to install them from the menu bar. I can't remember specifically where though.
Is your system connected to a surge protector? If not, get one.
Sudden power losses can do all sorts of weird stuff to PCs, but if you say it's working fine then take that as a blessing. If you're still having issues clear the CMOS an check the voltages in your BIOS. If they are outside of their nominal range then your PSU may have taken a hit.