The pins look fine. The plastic housing is only there to keep the connectors and headers orientated properly. Just put the plastic part back on.
I've noticed in the latest drivers I get an error similar to that after the PC has been idle for awhile. I went back to the older driver I was using. Not sure if it'll come back.
Hardline is over rated. Yeah it looks nice, but it's a pain in the *** to install.
What do you need help with? If it's a dead stick send it back.
How did you do the memtest? Was it from a bootable media? If you tested it in the OS you won't be testing 100% of the mem.
Before you look into replacing the GPU test it with furmark or another GPU testing program. Test different ports, i.e. HDMI, DP, etc. Also try a different monitor or even a TV.
If you've owned it since release and have never cleaned the inside I would start there. Your CPU/GPU unit could be thermal throttling which would result in the FPS loss. If your storage device has to initialize a lot then I would look into replacing the HDD.
It cloud game streaming. It's in beta now for Mac, but is supposed to support PC, Mac, and mobile when released.
Good. Now don't go overboard and start throwing everything together. There is obviously something that's not working properly.
1st - Test all your RAM in each DIMM slot individually. If you have two sticks and 4 slots you'll have to run the test 8 times. It's tedious, but worth it. Go here and create a bootable USB (via another pc) and boot to this USB for each test and run the included test. It's very easy. If there are any errors reported log the stick and the slot it's in. If you do have any errors you'll have to work out if it's the RAM or the DIMM slot.
2 - once the RAM checks out go into the UEFI and check the voltage. Your +12, +5, and +3.3 should all be within a few mV of their respective targets. If they're not you'll have to get a PSU tester. Something like this should work just fine.
3 - In the UEFI check that all settings are at stock and that the BIOS is up tot date. If not, reset the UEFI to optimized defaults (there's usually an option for this on the save and exit page.) If you need to update the BIOS ROM then follow the manual for your board.
4 - Add a boot device and go back into the UEFI and make sure it shows up. Once it does install windows.
5 - Once windows is installed and updated (including any necessary driver software for the motherboard and GPU) grab a basic stress test software suite and run it at stock setting for the CPU. Do this to ensure there are no crashes/instabilities at stock settings. I recommend Aida64 Extreme. You can install and use the basic version for basic testing for free.
Once everything checks out you should be good to go.
So we're on the same page what happens when you boot with the following;
CPU, CPU fan, 1 stick of RAM in the first primary slot, GPU, Keyboard, 24 pin power, 8 pin eps, GPU power, and display cable from gpu to monitor.
After jumping the power pin start hitting the delete key.
Edit - disregard the GPU power as the 1050ti doesn't require it.
Keyboard and mouse. When you try to boot with the gpu installed does anything at all show up on the monitor?
Watched your video. Your debug led lights seem to be working properly. They flash as the work through all the devices. It may be stopping at the boot led because it doesn't appear you have any boot device attached. I don't see any SATA drives or and M.2. Can you plug in a KMB and try and get into the BIOS?
From your post it sounds like it could be a few things.
I'd start with picking up a PSU tester. Something like this should work just fine. If everything is within a few mV your PSU should be fine.
If the PSU is fine the motherboard is most likely the problem, but as it's a pain in the *** to swap out I'd test other usb devices first. If you have access to another kbm. Then move on to swapping out your motherboard.
I'll help you out.
1- remove and components from the case.
2- place motherboard on a non conductive surface
3- install CPU, CPU cooler (plug in cooling fan to CPU_Fan header), memory, connect display to motherbard, connect KBM to motherboard rear USB, or PS/2
4- connect 24 pin ATX power connector
5- connect 4 pin CPU power connector
6- Jump start the system by shorting the power pins. (Refer to page 13 of your manual. The power pins are located in the F_Panel section of pins. Use a small flat head screw driver or other conductive material to make a temporary switch.)
7- try to get into the UEFI/BIOS by hitting the appropriate key (usually the delete key)
If you can get into the bios then something else in your build is causing it not to turn on. If it doesn't turn on you can clear the CMOS by jumping the CMOS pins listed at item 15 on page 13 of your manual. Repeat steps 6 and 7. If it still doesn't turn on then you may have a DOA board.
Doesn't matter, they may be on the same circuit.
Not sure what the wiring is like in your house, but if you had a shutdown after turning on another switch you may want to get a power line conditioner.
Link your build. It sounds like an unstable PSU or power from the wall.
Try just the CPU, heatsink and RAM. What happens?
The only thing I can recommend is to remove everything from the board except CPU, heatsing, RAM and keyboard. Clear the CMOS and try and boot to the UEFI that way. If it works you can add a drive and try to boot to windows.
Link your build.
Check the web. There are lots of OCing guides for Ryzen out there.
What kind of restart? Controlled or sudden power loss and self restart?
Boot normally, disable all non windows services and reboot. If no issue then it's a third party driver/software issue. If issue is still present boot to safe mode and test for issues or to safe mode with networking and test chrome.
Boot to the UEFI with no devices plugged in if you still receive the error then it is probably a bad board, if no error is reported start rebooting to the UEFI while connecting a known good device to each SATA port independently one at a time.
Boot to the UEFI with both sticks in the proper slots. If only one stick is recognized switch the placement of the sticks and reboot to the UEFI. If the same slot is not reporting any RAM then you have a bad RAM slot and will need to RMA the board.
Check your peripherals. I had one of the first Corsair K65 RGB keyboards and it would do than same thing every time I booted.
Check the PSU. I had a similar issues a few years back. Turns out there was a short in the PSU side of the PCIe power connector.
Good. I don't have any corsair stuff, but I do use CAM. I like it, but have found the the FPS overlay creates issues in some games.
Try it with only Origin and BF running. No other programs. Especially MSI Afterburner, if you have that running. I recently had to remove afterburner all together. The latest Windows updates have made it all but unusable will a lot of programs. Causing many to not even launch if afterburner is running.
The increase in GPU temperature is likely due to the increase of ambient temperature inside the case. The way you initially had it set up, with all fans as exhaust, created negative air pressure which resulted in the removal of the hotter internal faster than the GPU could increase the the air coming into the case via the vents, seems, etc. There is nothing wrong with running with a negative pressure build. The only disadvantage of it is that typically the air coming in through the vents and seems is typically not filtered and will result in a fast dust build up. If you have front intake filters and want to create a positive filtered air setup I would get another fan, place two fans as front intake, move the 120mm CPU rad and fan to the top of the case as exhaust, and set the rear exhaust to 100% RPM/PWM. This will provide a good supply of filtered air intake via the front fans and the rear exhaust fan running at close to 100% will remove most of the rising GPU heat before it can be sent through the CPU rad.
In regards to your fan speed question, there is no software that I am aware of that can tune both the GPU and system fans. I always recommend setting your system and CPU fan curves through the UEFI as, in my experience, it's the most reliable. For the GPU just use the radeon software.
I check the internal connections. You may have knocked one loose when moving the radiator.
Sounds like the game didn't exit properly. Just do a manual reboot via the power switch.
Yeah. Once you get your system built I would recommend doing these test first thing as they can help identify possible hardware failures early on when you can get a faster replacement from the supplier (i.e. Amazon, Newegg) instead of having to go through the RMA process with the manufacturer.
Just make sure to fully test the PC with everything at stock before enabling XMP. Anything beyond 2133 is technically an overclock and like all overclocks it's not guaranteed to be 100% stable. Although it, I've had to help people deal with mysterious problem that led back to a bad XMP profile, or poor compatibility between motherboard and XMP.
It's been my experience that when you have an open GPU, as apposed to a reference exhaust, and a rear exhaust fan, the temperature difference between placing a radiator in the front as intake or in the top as exhaust, the temperature difference will be minimal at best. The rear exhaust fan will exhaust the majority of the hot air from the GPU.
For you motherboard, codes A0-A7 are all related to SATA devices. Make sure you've updated the motherboards SATA 3 driver, check the connection, try different cables and ports.
Assuming you have no OC to your CPU, GPU, or mem, I'd start with stress/stability testing the core components while monitoring temps, clocks and voltages. Start with a bootable memory testing program, such as Memtest86+. If no errors move to a CPU test such as Aidia 64, Prime 95 or Intel Burn Test (at medium/mild settings,). If no errors/issues move to the GPU with something like Unigine, Furmark, Afterburner, etc. If all your core components are in proper working order move on to the OS and system drivers. Check for BIOS/UEFI updates, system drivers, try sfc /scannow. Then move on to checking the game installation for errors.
I'd check the PSU. Specifically the PCIe power connection points. At the PSU and at the GPU ends. I had a very similar problem with the same symptoms a few years back. Turns out there was a short in one of the PCIe power cables. I'd loose video output and the fans would ramp to 100%.
Need your build list. Need to know what connector you're talking about. There is no 4 pin atx. There is generally a 24 pin atx power and a 4 or 8 pin eps connector.
I mean how are they powered? Molex, 3 pin or 4 pin?
Check the GPU drivers. I recently had an issue with one of the nvidia drivers. It downclocked and locked the GPU clock to 625MHz.
There is a chance you've gotten a bad card, but I would try a few things first.
1-reseat the GPU
2-check the power connections. Both at the card and at the PSU. Make sure the connections are secured properly. Since your PSU is modular try a different connection port on the the PSU. Look signs of shorting on the PSU end. I had a similar issue a few years back and it was because there was a short at the VGA connection port on the PSU.
3-install the GPU, but keep the video output using you motherboard. Install the GPU drivers. Shutdown and move the video output to the GPU.
What type of fans are you using?
I'd check your running services. See if there is anything running that you don't need or shouldn't be running all the time.
Make sure the PCI bracket is not screwed down and that your disengaging the PCIe slot clip.
Keep in mind that Minecraft uses more CPU than you'd think it would. Take a look a what other programs are running, what other background services are running, etc.
Try different thumb drive. I had a similar issue. I couldn't get the installer to working with a Sandisk drive. The drive never had any other issue and I use it fairly frequently. Tried the installer with a PNY drive and work first time.
Check multiple editions of driver too. I have a similar setup with a 980. I updated from a 375 to a 376 driver and for some reason my GPU clock speed was capped at 625 MHz. I didn't notice at first. I was getting crazy frame drops and temporary freezing. I went back to 375 and everything went back to normal.
As other have mention, get Blue Screen View and Who Crashed. Both of these can help analyze crash dumps. Also, if the rig POSTs correctly and you can install Windows without blue screening then that leads me to believe it's a driver issue. Get windows reinstalled and boot to safe mode. Disable sleep and set it to never turn the monitor off. Let it sit at the desktop past when the BSODs usually happen. If you can do this then it's some non-Windows driver problem.