Ryzen 3 1200: can be had for $40 used
stock cooler that comes with ryzen chip: basically $0 since everyone already has one.
AB350M Pro 4 motherboard: meh 3-phase design on the VRM, but acceptable for use with higher tier chips; probably $50 at best
2x8GB DDR4-2400mhz: $25 (should be more than that probably and even if it stays at 8GB, it should DEFINITELY be faster)
CX450M PSU: decent enough, many people like this PSU for budget builds: $40-50
1TB WD Blue HDD: $20 (no SSD makes this whole thing less appealing, I have to say. you might consider either parting it out or adding an SSD first).
P400 case: locally, probably $30-40. I cant recommend shipping whole ATX PC's in the case due to the weight and shipping cost.
I dont deal with used peripherals, so i'm not giving price estimates on those.
pretty much any 1050 Ti: $65-90... yes, these sometimes go for more, but it makes no sense for anyone to purchase them when used RX 470, 480, and 570 cards go for $80 on average. if you were planning to sell on PCPP here, you'll have to be selling with the fact that people here know that ;)
so, excluding peripherals, I would estimate your PC to be worth $315 (give or take). with peripherals, a $400 estimate sounds reasonable. I can tell you right now if i was looking at buying this, I would never pay $700 for it considering how much better of a system that money could get you in new condition. best of luck with the sale!
how much are you asking for them?
i mean, this is hardly even worth anything these days. a GTX 675MX is significantly worse than even a GTX 1050. it barely beats a GT 1030. 8GB of presumeably DDR3 sodimm is okay. an i7--3639QM was a fantastic chip a while back, but these days its easily matched by a Ryzen 5 1400 (a chip that launched 3 years+ ago [tho to be fair, that is a desktop chip])
I would expect you to get offers in the sub $100 USD range, but if you happen to be a good marketer, you might get as much as $125-150 USD.
the other thing to look out for is the difference between the 14nm 1600 AE and the 12nm 1600 AF CPUs. the 1600 AF is practically a 2600 while the 1600 AE is the true precursor to the 2600. any of these should be within budget, but I would go for the 1600 AF or 2600 for getting steadier high framerates. alternatively, you might look into the 1700X and 1800X that you can get from aliexpress (not sure if they ship to AUS) as the prices on those are like $145 USD/$220 AUD. they are 14nm chips, but they do give you more cores for your multitasking needs for a reasonable price. not sure if that would fit into your budget, but maybe take a look into that?
you're looking at these prices on a part breakdown
i5-9400F 6-core: $90-120
8GB (1x8GB) DDR4-2666mhz: $20-25
GTX 1060 3GB (gigabyte): $75-110
120GB (DRAMless, sata): $10-15
232GB(?) HDD: $5 at best. its pretty much worthless at that size. you can get 1TB HDDs for $20, so since this is less than 1/4 of that size, well, you do the math.
USB wifi adapter: i mean, this one is worth maybe $10... hard to say
Wifi card?: $10-15 (whats with the redundancy here?)
okay B360 motherboard: $50 ish
Corsair Carbide 100R: $20-30
In total, this comes to about $280-370 USD
prices are based on current (05/16/2020) ebay, offerup, letgo, FB marketplace, and craigslist pricing for used components
you know the really sad part is that someone actually bought one...
it depends if its opened or not. if its opened, people will treat it as "used" whether it really has been or not. if its still sealed, then i would say, a little bit below current new pricing is a good bet. assuming its new and sealed, I would go with about $20 below the lowest new price (as of 5/16/2020, that is $719.99 @ amazon.com), so go for $700 Asking OBO. if its opened, we would have to treat it as used. personally, i wouldnt care if you used it for a few days... it makes no difference to me, but for most people, it would. In that event, you would have to go down to about $600 OBO or it would simply make more sense for people to just get a new one. $650 isnt out of the question, but thats probably what i would offer for it in that condition.
just out of curiosity, what chip did you end up going for instead? the 3950X is pretty hard to beat unless you go up to threadripper (or god forbid, something "high end" from intel).
best of luck with your sale. if I could afford to spend money on fun stuff right now, I'd probably offer to purchase it right now, but i really dont have the budget atm. ;)
1.) I would be glad to help you come up with a something on this budget if you want some personal help.
2.) this is the wrong section to post this in ;)
3.) if you want a flood of help, try the PCPP discord (link in footer of this webpage)
4.) if you want more help, you can join my PC Swaps discord: https://discord.gg/s4EhT7H
have a great day!
i take it back. i found a CPU, so now i need a board lol. I'll pay $100 via paypal if you like that. i would love it if you had the original box, but im fine with just the board and (hopefully) IO shield
just a board? ill pass. thanks though.
i dont have any Ryzen chips right now, but i would be happy to buy your board and CPU. whats a fair price to you?
depends a little on WHICH 600 watt unit you have as many cheap units cannot output as much as they say. if its a decent unit, 600 watts is plenty. I doubt it will draw more than 250 watts under a load.
i just bought a 2500K for $30, so, idk what to say
$2200 is way too much for this build. at best, you're looking at $1200 USD. as far as RAM and SSD, what IForgotMyPW2 said is what i'm going with. I sold a nicer PC than this for less just last month.
i5-7400 is worth about $80 on the used market. the 1060 3GB goes for $90-100 on average. the 6GB version is the one that can fetch $110-140. you're welcome to ask for them what you want of course. best of luck with your sale!
PCPP wont distinguish which may or may not be updated to support 3rd gen ryzen. any MSI MAX board will be updated for it though.
I almost would say less, but yeah, OP could probably get $100 USD.
you're looking at about $100-150 USD. its not bad, but very dated. old version of windows, no SSD, low amount of RAM, poor video card though also a decent CPU for budget gaming on a fairly alright board. not sure about cooler, case, or PSU. can nearly guarantee you that nobody will be using the DVD read/writer.
not a bad build. I would estimate about $800-900 USD, but thats pretty rough.
you could get the Halo: The Master Chief Collection on steam and play Halo: Reach, and Halo: Combat Evolved in Co-op. halo 2 will be along soon as well. Halo is one of my favorite games of all time, so I would recommend giving it a shot. it is only 2 player co-op, but yeah. another 2-player co-op would be portal 2 (highly recommended). you can get rusted warfare RTS if you set it up. you can have up to 10 players and any number can be people or AI. its graphically on the same level as minecraft, but plays very well. on top of that, its cross-platform between PC and android.
not a bad system. perhaps a little short on the RAM amount, but otherwise pretty good. I would say you're looking at around $450-550 USD depending on a few things like how it looks, RAM speed, what the PSU actually is, what 240GB SSD you have, etc. where you sell it also affects how much you can get for it.
terrible value when you can get a Ryzen 5 3600 for $175 new, a Ryzen 5 2600 for $120 new, an i5-9400F for $150 new, and an i5-9600K for $205 new. its not even the full i7-6700 (or much less, the 6700K). at most, these are worth $100 based purely on performance.
im honestly impressed that you managed to get that much out of that system. I'm not sure who would buy it for that much, but nonetheless, im glad you recouped so much moolah.
i mean, an i3-9100F can certainly beat the likes of an i7-5820K or 5960X or whatever in terms of single core performance no doubt, but you also forget that those chips are overclockable and they also have hyperthreading which means that likely, the multicore performance will be better anyway. on top of that, those chips have more cores. now, i dont personally remember a lot of 5XXX CPUs being around mostly because they were little to no better than 4th gen chips and skylake launched months after.
The problem with userbenchmark lies in the benchmarks it actually employs which dont go past DX10 (old) for the GPUs. the other issue is in the average benchmarks. that "average" is based on both a normal range of benchmark scores, but also based on those that are so bad (IE, an i7 that has a base clock speed higher than the "turbo" speed, meaning that it was either thermal or power-throttling) that they skew the end average results for many if not all of the parts.
again, im just not quite understanding the reasoning behind buying a slightly above average i3-9100F. I would suggest watching some videos about that CPU combined with testing for whatever you'll actually be using it for.
i hate to sound like a twit, but those parts are not worth anywhere close to $250. at best, i would expect you to get $100, and i mean on ebay. please don't think i want to lowball you because im not even interested in what you're selling to be honest with you. $100-120 USD would be approximately the total of the used pricing ive seen those parts going for. you're more than welcome to try and get more, but i think you'll find that difficult; just my two cents.
^ I have to second this. while parts of your build are good, some of it seems unbalanced, particularly the CPU choice.
another point: you must use Nvidia driver 417.71 or later to use freesync on Nvidia cards.
so, here is a rundown of whats what:
ryzen 5 1600 (also known as 1600 AE) is OG zen architecture with a 14nm process from TSMC
Ryzen 5 1600 AF is a later update to the 1600 which is the same CPU (original zen architecture) but on a 12nm process from TSMC. its very similar in performance to the...
Ryzen 5 2600, a Zen+ CPU (also based on a 12nm process from TSMC). the 2600 does slightly outperform the 1600 AF clock-for-clock, but the difference is largely negligible.
Ryzen 5 3600 is a Zen 2 CPU based on TSMC's 7nm process node and the performance boost over zen and Zen+ is more noticeable. clock for clock, you can expect the 3600 to outperform the 2600 by around 13% at best, but for most tasks, it falls more around a 7% average increase. this series of chips also likes faster memory and will generally only give a worthwhile IPC increase when utilizing 3600mhz+ kits.
what does this translate to? the 1600 AF is generally the best bang-for-buck 6 core, 12 thread CPU in existence with some later revisions offering better performance, but at the cost of worse value.
i do hope that you're kidding... you are right?
I did a quick value of each part except for the copy of windows because you cant count that for sale on this site. it comes to about $530 give or take $50. I honestly doubt you'll get more than $450 if you sell on this site, because the people that are on here know that you can build a better system for new for that price. if I were interested, I would offer you probably about $400 just because its dated hardware and most of it didn't age well against modern games which use more than 4 hyper-threaded cores quite easily (which is what the 7700 has). at best, this is comparable to a 2400G + RX 580/GTX 1660 build which would give equal or better performance for generally less money and it would be new.
if you want to get more money out of it, I suggest looking into ebay as the items you sell will go for more, but i also would warn you that you end up paying listing fees + final value fee + paypal fee (typically $1-30 + 10% final value + 2.9% fee on your earned money). best of luck with your sale!
I would just sell it as a combo. if it was a whole PC, you might have parted it out. as such, the only part i might sell seperately is the cooler. the CPU, board, and RAM should be together probably. you're looking at about $100-120 for the CPU, board, and RAM if you consider actual value. if you go by ebay standards, you'll get a tad more. the cooler is worth about $20 at this point based on age and size. total I would expect you to get from all this is $140 USD or so if you sell it here on PCPP.
the motherboard itself is not overclocked. this board will give any threadripper chip a very stable power delivery.
i would say about $400 would be fair, though based on what im seeing, you could probably get around $500 USD
this is worth around $300 if you add up part cost. it is likely to sell faster if you price it lower though.
The maximum I would think you could get out of this is $300, mostly based on the fact that people will pay too much money for those older motherboards that can be hard to find. not sure how you paid that much for this, because even in 2015, this was not a 2.5K build unless either:
A:) you are not referring to USD or
B:) you got ripped off
anyway, yeah, about $300 would be pretty fair, give or take $50 depending on where you sell it and how good you market it. on PCPP here where we evaluate things based on real performance compared to a modern system, IForgotMyPW2 is actually probably closer than I in real value.
you mean nuclear lake?
it is technically not listed, you are correct. it does support DDR4-3466mhz officially, so if for some reason it doesnt work with teh 3600mhz (which it probably will to be honest). you can manually set the speed back to that.
whats with the 19 day handling time?
your list is set to private; we cant see it.
ok, so let me explain some stuff.
1.) Userbenchmark is (under nearly no circumstances) a good benchmark in general.
2.) above average performing CPUs are usually ones that are the best cooled, have a good kit of memory paired with them, and/or are overclocked.
3.) since you are referring to a chip that is not unlocked for overclocking, any discrepancy you see in average-best benches can be attributed to cooling, ram speed/timings, and BCLK changes in the BIOS.
4.) buying an "above average" locked CPU makes no sense, especially if its such a low end chip.
5.) GTX 1080s are going to have some variation for the same kind of reasons: cooling, chip binning, BIOS implementation, VRAM manufacturer, driver version, etc. its easy to get your 1080 to perform above average by merely overclocking it even just a little.
at the end of the day, I guess im just wondering why you want to buy a slightly higher performing chip in the first place? the only reason to look for binned chips is if you want to get into overclocking competitions or for bragging rights I suppose. Not that I am trying to bring you down or anything, because I happen to be into overclocking and on occasion, some XOC.
its not bad, even considering its age. it certainly is dated though, and would be considered a mid range budget PC by current standards. its comparable to a Ryzen 5 2600 and GTX 1060/RX 580 PC. not knowing all specs exactly, this looks like a $300-350 USD build considering it is used and it uses relatively old components. 20GB of ram is plain weird and my guess is that it has 2 8GB sticks and a single 4GB stick. this is not exactly a good thing, but whatever. overall, its a decent budget build using what used to be high end stuff. you might get more or less depending on where you try to sell it.
well, if its "fine" but artifacting, then its not fine. I have known MSI, Asus, and Gigabyte to all do this in the past. people would send in cards that were obviously not quite right and they get sent back because either they are to lazy to test them correctly, or else they dont want to replace them with new cards and lose profit. its sad really. this is why I go with EVGA for my cards these days. I would say that an artifacting sort of working card in theh 2060 class would be worth about $120-150 at best. there is obviously an issue. it may be any number of things on the card too. I'd recommend putting it up on ebay as a "for parts or not working" listing and let people bid on it to see what you get.
oh yeah, i forgot about the dual GPU titan...
just FYI, your part list is set to private, so we cant see it. the larger PSUs are generally for power users that want to overclock, or for extreme overclocking, or for people that will simply be running very power hungry systems. for instance, while most mainstream builds for gaming can get away with 450-650 watt units, an X599 intel system with a 28-core Xeon W-3175X might require two power supplies due to the EPS CPU power cable requirements of many of the boards. this would be even more true if one was overclocking said system. it all comes down to need. also, generally, the less watts you use after a certain amount from a larger PSU will result in greater efficiency and thus reduced heat and usually fan noise from the power supply.
as long as you're getting 3600-3733mhz ram for ryzen 3000, you're in the right place. combine that with the lowest CAS latency that you can, the better. truth be told, the difference for ryzen between CL 16 and the usual 18 is not huge, but it is better. as long as you wont break the bank for the better timings, go for it. a combination of lower timings and higher speeds yields a better effective access time (that is, the time it takes for the CPU to access data residing in the RAM for instance). that said, if the 3600mhz CL18 kit is decently cheaper, you are just fine going with that kit. I used a 3600mhz CL18 kit when I built my brother's 3700X | 32GB | RTX 2060 Super rig. it worked fantastically. if your PC will be more for professional CPU workloads, I would invest in the best memory you can get, but for gaming, it really wont make a massive difference, if any.
not bad for an 2060 Super. wish I had a need, but i already got a 2080 Ti :) I might buy it for someone else's PC, but we'll see. good luck with your sale!
its been a while since i saw a GTX card ending in a 90. the fact that its NOT going to be a dual GPU card actually would be a first for an Nvidia card with a -90 ending as far as I know.
I'm not sure. it shouldnt damage it directly, but I dont know if it is conductive or not. I assume it is not, being an oil-based product, but the additives might make it conductive. either send it back for a refund/replacement or clean it up before use.
I would suggest taking the whole thing apart after getting some alcohol. chances are that the paste will need to be changed out anyway. might want to consider getting some new thermal pads if the ones on it are looking a bit meh. I have seen some pretty leaky thermal pads in the past, but not quite that bad. it is likely that the seller tried to clean it with something like WD-40 as gilroar said. you should probably have a look at the card before you use it is all im saying.