Yes everything should work if you put it together right, kind of a bit late to ask for opinions though. One suggestion would be to get a 2TB HDD, around 50-60 dollars.
a gt 630 takes 65 watts, I looked through all cards that don't take more than that and it seems that the best one is a gtx 750ti. Not a great card but not awful either, a GTX1050Ti is cheaper but takes just a tiny bit more wattage, so you could buy a 1050Ti, and if it takes up just too much wattage return it and buy the 750ti
I did build a whole new computer, yes, this is the build if you're interested (I since replaced the PSU but was too lazy to update it)...come to think of it I'm not sure whether or not your computer will be able to use a 1050ti or 1060, the reason I built a new one instead of just a new card was A: the case was really small so there wouldn't be room and B: the PSU was low wattage and had no PCIe cables so it wouldn't support it.
If there is room in the case you could get a GTX 1050 and a 50$ PSU for ~200$, there is a chance that you can get a new GPU without a new PSU but since it's a pre-built that's not super likely. Also GTX 1050s and 1050Ti cards won't need PCIe cables but I believe a 1060 would need one. If you don't know what those cords look like, they are tiny 3 by 2 cords that are plugged into the top of some GPUs
buys Titan V to play fortnite 4K 120fps
Probably depends on the module...
My old computer had an (outdated) i7 and a gt 640, so we have similar situations. For 200 dollars I would recommend a GTX1050Ti, which is also what I got. You could also consider a GTX 1060 3GB but that might be hard to find for less than ~220
I'd get the 8GB's of RAM, for general usage that should easily be enough. Get faster RAM too since Ryzen CPUs should be coupled with faster RAM. 2666Mhz should be fine but 3000Mhz or 3200Mhz is better, though for general usage it probably won't make too much of a difference anyways.
I agree, though it is odd that you put down the cooler as being purchased for free...if possible I would recommend 16GB of RAM but at this price you're better off getting the 1060 6GB and i3, anything less would be a worse deal
37c at idle is good. You could try speeding up the fan and/or lowering the OC...it probably won't make a huge difference if you don't achieve that overclock anyways.
if you can afford a a sufficient cooling solution that is
low 50's is high for idle. Idle idle temps are 30's (or 20's, but that's hard to achieve without 100+ dollar water coolers, or living in a tundra, though to be fair I live in Iowa, which sure feels like a tundra at points, and don't get that low temps).
'my 2400g at 4Ghz should be running in the 20's' per whom? Who said this? One possibility is that they were simply wrong, but you must also consider that not all CPU's run as cool as others, even when they are the same module, one 2400g can possibly achieve overclocks that another can not, simply because of luck. Why? I don't know to be honest, but it is what it is.
I assume you are measuring in Celsius
yeah, those temps' aren't awful, but are a bit high
quite a good deal over-budget though
Your CPU runs between 73c and 80c? I hope you mean that at full load it runs that hot, if so than it's not awful but I'd probably reduce the OC a bit cause that is a bit high, but that's your call. If you mean that when you're doing nothing it's 73c and under heavy load it's 80c then that's...interesting. 73c idle is horrible, but at the same time a 7c difference between idle and heavy load is tremendous.
I do however believe you mean that its 73-80c under heavy load, in which case as I said earlier I'd maybe take a bit off of the OC. The coffee lake i7 processors are infamous for getting hot easily, so you may consider a better cooler if you want to get the highest OC possible, though if we are honest, it probably won't make a huge difference in your performance for anything but benchmarks
he means that replaced it with a new one
I like it, it's a bit out dated, but that gives it an old school vibe
The one entitled dream build, correct? That is a a very good build (assuming your purpose is gaming). It would work great for 2k or even 4k resolution games
if you get a locked cooler and a locked mobo, why even buy an aftermarket cooler. Contrary to popular belief, the stock cooler works just fine if you aren't overclocking (which I know from personal experience so I don't care how many statistics, reviews, or studies you throw at me)
I guess it might be, but it shouldn't make much of a difference
The PSU might be an issue, but I'd imagine you can buy a power outlet adapter, that I what I did when I went to South America (long story). Other than that everything will work fine, of course
You don't need to buy the thermal paste since the stock cooler should have some pre-applied. Other than this I approve
Picture 11: HOLY CRAP THAT CASE IS HUGE
Picture 12: Oh, its on a stand...
Behold, the ultimate computer.
Also, that is a crap ton of case fans
for pure gaming I recommend Intel
Short answer: you can just use the stock cooler that comes with the CPU...of course it would be foolhardy not to use a CPU cooler at all, but the stock cooler isn't awful and should do fine
Long answer: If you want to overclock then you can maybe get a little extra juice out of it, but if you want to overclock very much then yes, I'd get one. If you don't want to overclock much or at all then you can just skip out on buying an aftermarket cooler.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Short answer: yes
Long answer: yes
Great to see a budget build get featured, this is a great build
Wow, that's...a lot. If anyone understands it then kudos for being a genius. From what I understand it's archaic and if you want to use modern parts then probably only the case is re-usable, though you could maybe keep the HDD and optical drive if there is one, but I wouldn't be surprised if they use older connectors and you need adapters. I didn't read the whole thing so I could be wrong.
Maybe a more...normal parts list would be better
I would probably buy and aftermarket cooler, but other than that it's fine.
I love the reflection of you taking a photo
Easy to answer. Put all the parts into a list on this website, and check the estimated wattage it will consume, and then you will know whether or not 550 watts will be enough (note: overclocking components can increase the wattage they consume, so keep that in mind if you plan to overclock anything)
By LAN you mean wired internet? If so then that's not LAN. If that's the issue than it is probably the router, but it could be the wifi adapters.
It has recently (as in withing the past 2 minutes) come to my attention that a 120mm AIO is not worth it and you should get air cooling instead, so I'd recommend you do that.
Honestly you probably own't even need to OC that CPU for most uses, I own one and for heavy gaming (though most of my gaming isn't heavy) it never reaches about ~70% usage, per MSI afterburner
The PSU needs to be better, it's something you should never cheap out on. I honestly don't know much about them, but you should get a good quality 80+ bronze (at this budget anyways), idk much about which ones are better than others, but a google search can help with that.
You could get a GTX1050Ti for like 20 bucks more, which is well worth it IMO
You could do that, but the BIOS probably has a built in reset option, which is easier since you don't have to deal with the hardware
1: To a certain degree you are correct. But you put on standards for them to meet. You can look through the list yourself and choose a better one if you really want to, but using a filter give you the cheapest option, and for parts such as RAM or HDDs you probably won't notice much of a difference anyways. It's not like I'm doing it to the PSU or the cooler.
2: speaking of the cooler, I will admit I don't know much about them, I simply choose one around the price range that has good reviews.
3: the particular drive isn't questionable, but spending 250 dollars on a single drive sure is. Makes a lot more sense to spend 100 dollars left and get a 500GB SSD and a 2TB HDD. You could even get 2 500GBs SSD and get the same storage for a smaller price.
The first one is probably the best of the 3. The second is similar but with a better CPU, however a worse GPU. It is better for gaming, as for streaming I'm mostly confident that it will do better than the second one. The third is the worst of all of them, but is cheaper
this is your RAM, correct? Don't ask how I know, I'm psychic*. You could contact the manufacturers, or bring the RAM back down to 2666mhz (shouldn't make too much of a difference anyways). Could also be unrelated (not very likely), and is something else with the BIOS update. You could consider resetting the BIOS and then setting the RAM to what you want, and if applicable putting all overclocks back the way they were, then trying again
*I actually just looked at your profile and saw your parts list to find them
At the top of your partlist, I didn't even see that cause why would I look there? You should have just put it in the forum post
As for the GPU, just get the cheapest 1060 6GBs available. AS for the motherboard, I don't know much about AMD boards, but I'd imagine you can just do it now, motherboards do generally cause too much difference in performance
I built my computer on a wood table in a garage with concrete flooring, no socks, no wrist bands. Just touch some grounded metal and don't tough any fluffy stuff (weird term). If you are nervous then touch some grounded metal before touching the MOBO, but is is indeed hard to accidentally damage components with static without being an idiot
check for wifi driver updates
looks good to me
first time build you spend almost 8000$
you have 3 comments
you have no comment karma
first time you do a custom loop, and you don't even mention overclocking in the 'details' section (or the desc.)
you only have 1 photo
I'm not saying its not real, I'm just saying it's...suspicious
B360 is meant for lesser, cheaper boards and builds. I would get the list of all B360 MOBOs and sort by either A: cheapest price or B: best reviews
Mine is 100 mb so it's probably your router
edit: and that's wireless. In theory my internet could support 12.5MB/s so if I used Ethernet it would, most likely, be even faster than that
this is what I would do
but then its not the same resolution, so he should have said so (plus we don't know whether or not he has multiple)
You mean multiple monitors all running 1080p? Then that's not really the same thing if you think about it. If you have 2 monitors at 1920x1080 then its 3840x1080, which is a huge difference
I'm not convinced