Not great. I had zero issues with the SX500-LG (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SD9IORQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but ended up upgrading to an SX800-LTI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NALZ89C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as a "just in case" because the forum felt so strongly that my PSU would cause issues.
I looked at the size specs of the 2 PSU's and they were the same. Reviews of the SX800-LTI were also positive, so I pulled the trigger.
Unfortunately, the modular plugs of the SX800-LTI extend further (you can see the difference in the Amazon links). I wasn't able get the PSU to sit flush with the screws in this case, so the PSU sits angled slightly in the case. It doesn't cause any technical issues, but when I look at it, my latent OCD gets triggered :(
Regarding noise... for actively cooled PSU's, the bigger the fan, the quieter the unit, because a larger fan can do the same work at lower RPM.
I'd check online for acoustical testing of the PSUs you're considering.
Games get it to 84C, but I cheat and have the exhaust lid open :)
3dmark pushes it to 86 (side exhaust open)
Yeah, they almost make me wish I'd gotten an 8600k. CPU load can hit mid-70's. CPU maxxed at 54C yesterday when playing BF5 (1080p/Ray tracing@ultra)
Just starting to test with Asus GPU tweak. It lets you set the desired GPU temp, and adjusts the fans as necessary.
I haven't played with it too much, but just setting my GPU to 78 degrees raised my Timespy score by a couple hundred points.
Haven't run a decibel meter, but I didn't notice a jump in fan noise.
Note on HDR - I finally streamlined Kodi+MPC-BE+Lav+MadVR. I had to adjust some refresh rates in MPC-BE, as it wasn't adjusting to the TV when going fullscreen.
Leave HDR off in Windows settings, and set colorspace to RGB/8-bit/full in Nvidia control panel. Those give you the best desktop experience (HDMI to OLED). MPC-BE and games that support HDR will switch the display to the appropriate color space on their own.
It definitely looks sweet horizontal in a glass top home theater rack! :)
If I had magical influence over Phanteks, and could get them to modify this case to make it perfect as a 4k gaming HTPC, I'd only ask for three (or 4) things:
1) a rear fan option
2) +2 cm longer to accommodate bigger PSUs
3) slightly wider GPU bracket to fit GPUs with serious heatsinks
4) external gen2 USB-C
No, the heatsink is too small for that. My card spins at 1500 RPM when web browsing.
No issues so far other than HDR (which is resolved by power cycling the receiver, so seems unrelated). No reboots or BSODs but I did notice that hwmonitor said my GPU pulled a max of 105% power. For science, I'm going to try plugging in a second PSU just to the card, and see if the scores go up significantly.
The bracket wouldn't fit a ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-11G-GAMING I recently purchased for another PC, because the heatsink was too wide. But this RTX card fits easily.
As of today, idle GPU is 36, idle CPU is 34. After I ran the TimeSpy benchmark demo GPU hit a high of 86, CPU hit a high of 61.
The video card doesn't show up in the Aura software, but its color matches the mobo setting.
I don't really follow benchmarks, but below is my Time Spy score for reference. On the Founders/8700K scale, it seems to be halfway between a 2080 and 2080 Ti:
3DMark Time Spy
It probably would have helped with an 8600K or 8700K, but with the current CPU, I'm not experiencing issues under load. Also my locked 8600 doesn't make it to 70% load in 4K games.
I don't disagree, but made this call based off of acoustics and space limitations.
I've been travelling the last couple days, and honestly, my son has been playing more than I so far, but PUBG and GTA5 both max what my TV (LG OLED) can display. I plan to play some Battlefield 1 later today :)
I agonized over that, but in the end, wanted to optimize Watts and cooling over Photoshop performance.
4K gaming doesn't peg my CPU load, but that might change if I live streamed.
No performance issues, but this card is slightly underclocked compared to the Founders Edition. This isn't the case/card for overclocking, but I'm already maxxing what my OLED can display so shrug.
When raytracing is available, things may change, but right now it's too early to say.
Performance is great. The system was whisper quiet under load without the video card (the 2080 Ti shipment was delayed) but the blower card is louder than I'd like under load (~40 dB). The Evolv Shift X has aluminum side grills, which might dissipate heat better, but this case could really use a fan in the port connector compartment. Heat would probably flow out better if the case was in the tower position, but that would be too distracting for an HTPC.
That being said, the mobo, CPU, and SSD stay cool, and the GPU stays under 80 during load.
I haven't had this long, but zero compatibility issues so far. 802.11ac and bluetooth 5 work seemlessly.
Replacing this card was the first step in my build process. I was surprised there wasn't a youtube guide, because it seems like an obvious thing to want to improve an otherwise great motherboard.
Card needs to be replaced before mounting the motherboard in the case. There were 5 screws and some glue to an internal spacer. I used the little plastic shovel that comes with the thermal paste to pry it off. Make sure the black and white wires connect to the appropriate leads, then screw it back together.