As always, AMD vs Intel is not always 100% "the way to go" for everyone. It always depends on the situation and what you are building the workstation for that will dictate which platform is the better choice.
It's the old EK WB D5 Pump/Res combo before the new Revo style came out. Can't buy them anymore unless you can find used.
I like the look of the filters as an aesthetic choice. Gives me an idea for a Harley build as they have the look of exhaust pipes.
If you read, he got the GPUs for $800 total. Two 2080 TIs would be $2600+. So you are looking at an additional $1800 for the GPUs + an additional $200 for the CPU. So $2000 vs just $1200 for those parts is "close to double".
If given the choice between 2 1080 TIs for $800 or two 2080 TIs for $2600....I think the choice is pretty obvious unless $$$ is irrelevant.
Those upgrades alone would probably be close to 2x the cost of what he spent. Its not like we're talking another saving another 10%-20% for newer gen hardware.
Much wiser choice to spend 1/2 the cost if it checks all the boxes for what you need now and for a few years to come.
Nice build. I always like the more monochromatic builds, even though I've yet to do one myself. They tend to look more elegant and professional. The DOM Plats definitely more it look more premium. Of course, if you prefer to use the RGB colors more, than the GSKILL ram brings that.
Only issue I have, and it is really just my OCD, is the one 45 degree angle of the CPU to top RAD tube run. Everything else being nice and squared off and 90 degree bends just makes this one scream at me. I probably would have ran it more as an L out of the top rad and then back to the CPU block; but again, that is just my OCD and nothing else.
I5-7600k is not going to bottleneck a GTX 1080ti. Plenty of benchmarks have shown you have to pretty much go all the way back to Sandy Bridge to begin seeing CPUs starting to show signs of bottlenecking. Also, a GTX 1080 TI is a waste for 1080p gaming....and once you move to 1440p or higher gaming, even Sandy Bridge is fine. I5's are perfectly fine for gaming, as still a very limited number of games make use of more than 4/6 cores in games.
Interesting choice in cable routing. Is there a reason why one EPS cable is routed behind the MB while the other is stretched over to the top grommet? It would seem like the left EPS would look more natural coming down from the top grommet while the right one goes behind the MB or through the other grommet (if room).
Outside of that, I do appreciate clean black/white builds without RGB. Simple and understated while looking classy.
May not be negative airflow depending on the fan speeds that are set. I have one system set up similarly and the rear exhaust fan is only set to come on if internal ambient temps reach an certain level to vent things temporarily.
In some places the GTX 2080 price is the same or very close to the cost of a new GTX 1080 Ti GPU. Not saying that was the case here, but if the $ for a 2080 vs 1080 Ti were within 10% or so, I would get the 2080 as well.
Thanks. I saw your punisher build while I was working on mine. I'm still a beginner when it comes to acrylic panels/modding, so I was not ready to tackle as much as your build. I really do like the final look of your build as well. Nice and clean.
I am planning on practicing modding a bunch more in the coming weeks. Plan on buying a cheap $30-$40 case and seeing if I can make it actually look nice with custom panels. I am surprised how many super budget cases actually have good layouts and cable management room, but look like garbage aesthetically. I love watching JPModified use rather simply acrylic panels to completely change the looks of a case.
I wish I would have taken more pictures of the actual modding process I did with the PC-v3000. I really need to change my build work desk to be better for documenting the process. The lighting or horrendous for taking pictures of my work.
At 2200 RPM you are correct. It's not 4.20mmH2O at 1600 RPM. Static pressure numbers listed on product information is always based upon max RPMs.
The fan blades and housing are the same between the ML Pro and ML Pro RGB. It's just the RPMs are limited on the RGB version. When the ML Pro regular are running between 400 and 1600 RPM, they have the same static pressure as the RGB versions do.
I know...but they are pretty much the best RGB radiator fans on the market, unless you count the Corsair HD RGB which I feel look like crap with the exposed LEDs.
They have the same static pressure as the regular ML Pros do which are in the top three radiator fans....but are limited to 1600 RPM instead of 2000+. 1.78mmH2O is actually pretty good and equal to the best radiator fans when running at sub 1800 RPMs which is the goal here. I could have ran the entire thing on less than 600mm of radiator space if I wanted to run 2200 RPM fans that sound like a jet engine at that speed.
Thats why I wanted enough radiator space to be able to run fans at silent RPMs and maintain good temps, which the ML fans do great.
If the fans speeds are all matched, it probably isn't a big issue. Temps probably wouldn't change by matching them up by more than 1 degree if that. The only thing that it may do is lower noise if the fans are pushing different amounts of air at the same RPM and causing "air buffering" to occur.
However, if temps and noise are all in check and good....then it's probably not an issue worth worrying about. It is a nice build btw and nice desk setup as well.
I would be concerned about turbulence on that front rad with mismatched push/pull cans. the LL and ML series fans have different RPM ratings and push different amounts of air at the same RPMs. You usually want to match fans for smooth airflow.
I'm assuming that since the top fan/rad combo is set up as an exhaust, the rear fan is configured as an intake to promote positive/neutral air pressure (3 intake / 3 exhaust).
Yeah....I'm very impressed with the temps I'm getting. While I may not have gotten the best overclocking chip....getting one that runs rock solid a 4.7 GHZ at only 1.165 volts helps keep it cool. I've been tweaking my fan curves and it now idles at 29c and maxes out a 71 while rendering video (all cores 100%). Full stress test still hits 90.....but that's not real workloads.
The Flow meter actually works out well. While it only states support for those three sizes, That covers most tubes. My 16mm OD/ 12mm OD is close enough to 13mm to give accurate enough readings. May not be exact...but as long as I can see flow in the 1.0 - 1.6 LPM range...I know everything is flowing and in the "sweet spot" range, even if not exact.
The CPU is not delidded. It runs at 4.7GHz stable at about 55 degrees under normal gaming load. Jumps up to 70 degrees when rendering.
I am using the XSPC G/14" plug sensor that comes with the XSPC LED display. It is tapped into a Q fitting that is at the bottom of the hard line tube running from the top res to the front res (just before it goes under the HDD sled...which is also where the Koolance Flow Meter is at).
Here is the part http://www.performance-pcs.com/lcd-temperature-display-white-v3-g1-4-plug-sensor.html
Ironic thing is...I've been building computers for 20 years and never thought to inquire with one of my best friends that work for Intel what sort of a discount they get on processors. When I found out it was ~50%....I instantly thought of all the $$ I've wasted over the years.
Show me a better performing processor for $297 and I'll consider your opinion.
Any chipset that come with Icy Lake will probably be compatible for 2 generations of CPU. Intel usually does 2 CPUs with each chipset in their mainstream platform. Skylake and Kaby Lake both worked on z170 (although z270 came out it wasn't required). Every mainstream chipset since z57 has supported 2 CPU generations as far as I know.
Coffee Lake was an unfortunate situation for Intel. I think they were caught sleeping a little bit with Ryzen. Obviously Coffee Lake (and the bump from 4c/8t to 6c/12t) has been in the works before Ryzen even came out (it takes years to design and fab a new plaform). However, I don't think Intel expected Ryzen to end up as good of a price to performance option as it is and forced them to react.
I fully expect 10nm motherboards to offer 2, if not 3 generations of CPU for Intel going forward though unless AMD falls into obscurity again if AMD can't maintain their progress with Zen2 and Zen3.
I understand where you are coming from, and in the pictures here I definitely see the point. However, when you are standing at the door to my office the oak finish desk (which are IKEA kitchen counter tops btw) actually match the other furniture in the room. Only thing that doesn't fit is the blue carpet (but hey...it's what came with the house for now) :-).
I usually run the desk LEDs white like the case, but something is going wrong with them and the blue LEDs are out on 1/2 the strip. So I have it switched to red for now until I order a new strip off Amazon.
If you are ONLY worried about gaming....then currently a top end Z370 motherboard is the best option. Pair it with a I7-8700K or I5-8600K for the best gaming FPS in most modern AAA games.
However, I would be hesitant right now to buy z370; because its not really what Intel had planned for Coffee Lake CPUs. It's just z270 with modified power delivery to the CPU to support Coffee Lake (8000 series processors). Intel pushed up Coffee Lake release big time to try and counter AMD grabbing mainstream market share with their 8c/16t and 6c/12t Zen chips.
z390 is supposed to come out later this year and include the other improvements that were slotted to come with the Coffee Lake platform. Most notably better USB 3.1 Gen2 support. Either way z390 will probably be the end of the line before z400 series motherboards are released for Icy Lake chips when Intel releases those. Since Icy Lake is based off of a 10nm node, it will require a new motherboard chipset (hence the z400 series line).
Personal taste really I guess. It's a great concept and cool build, but I would have preferred to see more tubing myself. Not only would it have looked cooler (again personal preference), but would have saved a ton of $$.
The time....well...like any other hobby you make time for it. I don't have nearly the amount of time I used to, but still manage to squeeze in the hours here and there. Family knows that sometimes I go into my office and close the door for a few hours of me time every now and then.
As for the money. That's not always as easy. I wish I was a big tech reviewer and was able to get product sent to me to play with all day. Unfortunately I don't and have to find the budget to do it on my own. I set aside a set $ amount from every paycheck and when the account gets high enough, I'll buy a part or two to check out. Eventually I end up with enough parts to build a full system. I generally try and give away the system to a family member or sell the system (almost always for less than cost) to someone who needs one.
All good and welcome to the wonderful world of PC building. Beware it can become really addictive!!!
I personally have 4 additional computers I've built to just sit on a table.....I know, I have a problem!!
My biggest concern would be choking off the airflow to the front 120mm fan on the bottom radiator with it in pull and that close to the front rad. But as long as your thermals are all in check, it's all good.
Finding it really hard to find a good case to do 1x360 and 1x480 rad in that isn't the size of a mini-fridge. Closest option I have right now I'm working with is the DBPro 900 where I can do 1x360 + 1x420. May consider some other cases where I can do dual 240s like this to get the full 480 rads for my GPUs.
What tweaks are you referring to about the memory not running at 3000Mhz? If you are talking about it running at 2400 initially, that's normal for all memory on AM4 boards. Native memory speed is 2400 (2133 and 2666 for Intel). On all those platforms, anything over "native" speed is considered overclocked and has to be set in BIOS manually or via XMP profile.
As long as PCIE-1 is not populated...PCIE-3 should get full x16 lanes. On the MSI Pro Carbon you can tell if the card is running x16 of < x16 by the color of the LED for the slot. If it's red...it's x16, if it's white it's x8 or less. I couldn't get a really good look at it from the pictures....but looked like it's running the full x16.
I made the PSU cover out of a solid sheet of acrylic. Just cut it to size and bent 90%. Then painted white and used a grey vinyl decal for the logo.
I know the logo is covered by the side panel, and I kind of like it that way. To the normal viewer with the side panel on, it doesn't push the OSU theme. However, once the side panel comes off, the full theme emerges. Allows even non-OSU fans to appreciate it overall (hopefully).
The rads were solid white from Hardware Labs (fins and shroud) and they were painted grey. I looked around for a professional to paint the computer case white, and couldn't find anyone around town that would do it. So I ended up doing it myself with good old rattle cans. It's not a professional paint job...but I like to think of it as perfectly imperfect.