A white themed gaming PC. I'm a digital sculptor/3D character artist and I use my PC mostly for sculpting in ZBrush, modeling in Maya and texturing in Substance Painter. I also love to game (mostly Dota 2) but I play graphics-intensive offline games as well (a gamer you may call me, but another reason is for my job).
It took me a while (a half year exactly) to get the components completely assembled. At first I bought ID-Cooling FrostFlow 240+ and ID-Cooling IceKimo VGA to cool my Ryzen 1700 and 1080 Ti but it didn't work because of the airflow (hot air form either CPU or VGA rad blowing into the case and into each other), so I went with a different route. I odered a NZXT G12 (took another month to arrive) and bought a 2nd Corsair H55 for my vga. Bought a Corsair H100i V2 as well because I thought it'd perform better than ID-Cooling FrostFlow (but I was wrong, they are equally same). Ordered 2x120 Scythe Ayakaze white led fans and 1x120 Soplay white led fan for aesthetic. And the air flow goes like this: 2x120mm Scythe fans and 1x140mm Corsair fan as intake, blowing cool air into the case. Then my CPU is cooled through a 240mm Rad of H100i V2 at top, vga is cooled through 120mm Rad of H55 at rear. The pressure is a little positive in the case so I assume this airflow is optimized.
Temp after 30 mins of Prime95 Small test (maximum heat generated): Ambient 28~30°c (yeah it's hot here)
Default: Stock HSF: 42°c to 66°c Corsair H100i v2: 36°c to 53°c
Overclocked (1.2125v Cpu @3800Mhz; 1.05v Soc; 1.39v Dram @3200C14) Corsair H100i v2: 40°c to 72°c (1700 to 2000RPM)
Galax 1080 Ti Exoc Stock HSF: 43°c to 72°c (Stress with FurMark for 30 mins) With Corsair H55: 40°c to 71°c (1400RPM)
Case (mainboard) temp: 40°c SSD and HDD temp: 850EVO: 44°c Hitachi 2TB: 42°c WD 1TB: 40°c
Then I bought some led strips, cables and controller from eBay for a few bucks. I also bought a NZXT Puck and Astro A40 with MixAmp for only $100 from Amazon. Bought some vinyl wraps for turn my vga backplate white. Bought some aluminum decals to stick them everywhere too. It took me another few months to get all the stuff.
The assembly is a little complicated as I have to re-do my cable management because of Corsair 400C's design. It has so little space at the back for the cables and they even snug in 3x SSD cages there to make it more worse. As I used a non-modular PSU (SeaSonic HT850) before, I can't managed to use the SSD cages and took it off. After my PSU failed not long after, I bought a new CM V850 and managed to put the SSD cages back and re-do the cable management. It's better now. (Beware if you don't have a modular PSU, it's not the only problem but you also have to deal with the small space left in between the HDD cage and PSU). But it's not the end, Corsair 400C has a PSU and HDD shroud that is so hard to assemble because it touches the mainboard (literally) leaving no space for cable under the mainboard (look at my led cables lying on the PSU shroud). And I painted it white as you can see, black shroud didn't fit at all.
Other than that I'm satisfied with the result in both performance and aesthetic. I might paint the radiator or H100i v2, buy some better fans for it (white of course), vynil wrap the cpu block in the future.
I'm using dual 32" 1080p PLS monitors and I find it very pleasing. If I ever upgrade I will buy dell 43" 4K monitor to replace them, but not so soon.
- Poligone -
Good CPU, multi-tasking with ease. Mine can easily go 4Ghz at 1.37v (never tried higher) but it's not stable because of the heat that my H100i V2 can't fight against.
Ok performance, not so impressive comparing to top air coolers such as Cryorig R1 or Phanteks TC14PE.
Good performance but viscocity is kind of high.
Yes the build quality is top-notch, but the Bios SUCKS! Tried stock Bios (2.x), 3.20, 4.40, 4.60, 4.72 beta. They are all ****. It's either the cold boot problem (related to Dram boot voltage which does NOT exist in the bios), or advanced settings cant be saved in presets, and in some recent version they removed some settings such as C6 State and Scalar. This is a good board with beefy VRM but unless ASRock do something about their Bios, I will never buy from them again. Asus CH6/CH7 are obvious choices.
I expected more from this kit because it's Samsung B-die. But on Ryzen I only managed to get it to run at 3200C14@1.39v and it's still not stable after a few hours of Prime95 Blend test. Maybe it's the platform (X370 Taichi 4.72 and Ryzen 1700), I will update if they update the BIOS.
Still rocks after 18k hours of work (that means 2 years continuously power on).
The price is a steal and this card uses reference board, so it's a plus to use aftermarket cooler. The best part is its backplate doesn't interfere with the cooler screws at all. Run games smoothly, overclocking headroom is there but not much.
At this price point I expected better cable management. And the PSU shroud is a pain in the *** to assemble. You will have a hard time installing radiators at front panel as they will touch the IO cables inside. Airflow is acceptable for the aesthetic. Other than that, great case overall.
Reliable power supply. I'm not a PSU guru but this one right here saved my *** some times when my house electricity went off. Read the review of Johnny Guru and look at the scores: 10 for performance.
Acceptable performance for the price point. If you like buttons, it has a lot.
Overall it's a nice headset. Stock microphone is not so loud and it has a "noise gate" which cuts your voice at certain level and can't be disabled completely. MixAmp works well but Dolby is not so impressive; if you use any headphone just buy Dolby Atmos, it's way better.