I restored an antique GE radio and built a laser cut computer case to house the components inside.
The radio capacitor and two vacuum tubes on the back are just for aesthetics. Unfortunately, they take up a lot of space and made cable management more difficult. The exhaust fan mounted behind the vacuum tubes and the CPU cooling fan are only separated by about 1 inch, which isn't ideal, but the temperatures are acceptable.
I made the purple meshes by 3D printing PETG parts with support material but without top and bottom layers. These large holes all around the case really helped in assembling and provide great air flow.
Description of the 4 custom knob functions:
Power ON / OFF knob - A 3D printed knob turns to close a switch connected to the power switch pins on the JFP1 motherboard header. It returns with a spring to make it quasi-momentary.
Volume Up / Down / Mute - I bought a USB device which did this function. I opened it up, took out the PCB, and mounted it behind the bottom middle knob. I had to de-solder a blue LED to remove it from the board so the potentiometer could be mounted flush with the radio. The LED was extended with a wire and mounted behind the radio tuning window. I also had to solder the micro-USB power cable directly to the PCB to save space.
Front Panel Window Reveal - This was by far the most complicated part of the build. The knob had a toothed pully on the back. A tensioned belt wrapped around the system of pullies and move the cloth support piece up and down to reveal the front panel ports. This is really important to have due to the difficulty of accessing the motherboard ports.
Station Tuning Window - The radio had this backlit window and dial to indicate the selected AM radio station. Now the white light in this window is produced from a tiny strip of 12V white LEDs connected to the JRGB1 header on the motherboard. The knob will turn the station tuning dial, but at the far end it will activate a switch to turn the lights off. This is so I can sleep at night without turning the computer off. The blue LED from the volume PCB is also mounted in this window. It lights up when the volume knob is turned.
Here is a short video of the knob functions: https://youtu.be/-SXyYLOc2OA
CPU has been great. Good performance for the price. The included cooler is okay, but not great. The fan isn't loud, but it was too noisy for a wooden case echo chamber that sits on my desk.
It costs too much, but Noctua's products are amazing. This is my second Noctua cooler and I'm very happy with it.
Recognized the ryzen 3600 CPU out of the box, which made this first-time AMD build easy. It's a solid little board.
Plug and play perfection. Ran at advertised settings after clicking on XMP profile in BIOS.
It costs too much for what it is, but Samsung's drives are great. This is my second Samsung NVME drive. I've been running the other for 4 years with zero problems. I made a cutout for the drive on the motherboard mounting plate which keeps it a little cooler. It will run slightly hot, if transfering lots of data or installing all your programs and videogames when you finish your build. I'd add a small heatsink to be extra cautious if I had the space in my case.
This is a great GPU but it's overkill for the games I play even at 3440x1440 60fps on the highest settings. The 1660 series would have been a good alternative. The GPU I received occassionally has some coil whine, but it's inaudible when the case is closed up.
It's so small and top quality. The zero-fan mode is great. The cost is a little high, but there are frequently large discounts. The sleeved cables are nice and just the right length for small builds. I wish it had a SATA power cable with only a single connector as the three connector daisy-chain is annoying to cable manage in such a small case.
Noctua fans are the best. You can't hear a sound up to about ~1400rpm even if you stick your ear into the blades trying to hear them, which I've done. This fan has run nearly nonstop for 6 years and it's still perfect.