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My first custom build

by greenjust


Part List View full price breakdown


Date Published

Feb. 15, 2018

Date Built

Feb. 13, 2018

CPU Clock Rate

5 GHz

CPU Temperature While Idle

38.0° C

CPU Temperature Under Load

66.0° C

GPU Core Clock Rate

2.036 GHz

GPU Effective Memory Clock Rate

11.264 GHz

GPU Temperature While Idle

28.0° C

GPU Temperature Under Load

40.0° C


                             *** Finally tore my loop apart since that particle settling out in my res didnt go away, switched to distilled water and noticed a ~5c from drop from 39c to ~35c using the primo chill. when i took the pump res combo apart to clean it the residue was a slimy gel, I dont have any particle build up in the CPU block, and didnt take my GPU block apart to look. running it on a cleaner right now ill give the Vue one more chance to see if it does it again***

Built it as an all around from VR to 3D design. Designed a cover to fill the cable pass thru from the power supply below is the think for those with a 3D printer. (looks great in protopastas carbon fiber.) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2787723/#files

All temps were taken with ambient room temp of 24c on custom fan curve. The only cables actually plugged into the mother board are the power, front panel, RGB extension(for the led strips around the window), and 2 USB 3.1, everything temp and fan speed is being ran thru corsair link software. for the rad being right up against the shroud (the hard drive cage is about 5 mm back from the rad and my hard drive sits a little above the ambient case temp) I didn't see any difference in temps with or without it my huge temp jump was after de-lidding the CPU, my water temps went up from ~30 c to ~35 c, while my CPU temps dropped about 20-30c under load. My GPU temp was a slight increase of about 1-2 degrees. The temp sensors were sleeved by me and I re-sleeved the pump cables with para-cord instead of the plastic mesh it came with, on the back side I left the heat shrink but on the front its removed. all the temp sensors are tucked away where they cant be seen but still give accurate readings. I also tied a water temp sensor into the corsair commander and use that temp to set my fan curve off of. Cable management on this case is a nightmare especially with all the sensors I have (I'm paranoid about the temps getting to high, 6 total split between the software and the LED screens 2 water, 4 air) and the two LED readouts. I cut those out using a dremel and some light sanding to get rid of the burs. next time I tear it down I will probably take the shroud out and give it a "brushed" sanding since the file slipped a couple times when I wasn't paying attention. But I was able to take the bottom hard drive tray out and push all the excess cables in there. The last group of pics are my 3d mark scores and the specs including idle temps and load temps. I ran 3dmark for about 10-15 minutes (doesn't take long for my loop to stabilize its less than .5 liters of fluid total) then ran prime95 until my core temps stabilized.

Part Reviews


OC to 5.0-5.1GHZ, Intel should have used solder not thermal paste.

Thermal Compound

dropped temps by ~5c compared to artic silver

Thermal Compound

DROPPED ~25c under load after de-lidding CPU. Less is more if you don't know how to use this just watch YouTube videos on it take your time and be patient. Don't try to squeeze it out directly over your processor it will probably end up everywhere i did it over a piece of plastic in case it gushed out, with the rest of my computer on the other side of the room. it is EXTREMELY CONDUCTIVE! don't use on aluminium


BIOS is a little sluggish, overall a nice looking board its kind of silver in pics but more of a gunmetal in person.


great looking ram OC to 3066.


Very fast boot times only have the OS on it right now takes about 7 seconds to boot.


within a month of having it started to get smart errors preventing full boot, after a few days of running the tests and trying to figure out how to clear the S.M.A.R.T results it started working on its own again. should have gone with the western digital black.

Video Card

gorgeous card with the stock cooler, takes up about 2.5 slots with it RGB isnt over kill. currently have it overclocked stable at 2000-2100 on water. on air got about 1900-2000 depending on temps using MSI afterburner. power limit 120, temp 90, core clock +151, mem clock +700. I sit stable at +160 on all benchmarks except FURmark.


great case very small form factor which is why i went with it. Trying to fit everything inside was tedious, need about half an inch more in the back for cables, I probably could have gone with the 570X for that little bit of extra room. Very easy to cut and bend parts inside. airflow doesn't seem to be an issue with or without the front panel. I actually get a greater temp difference by removing the top mesh of about 2-5c

Power Supply

havent had any issues with this power supply, runs the 8700K and 1080TI in OC without hitting power limits.

Operating System

constant updates, i personally dont like the GUI but I haven't liked them since win7 side note be careful about buying on amazon purchased a sealed USB version and the seller was stealing activation codes and reselling them.

Case Fan

great looking fans, extremely quiet unil about 60+% fan speed. then its a dull hum to about 70%. one of the LED's have already died. Need to contact corsair for a replacement.

Comments Sorted by:

Blackie_Sheen 1 Build 3 points 14 months ago

Looks sick with the blue theme and the metal tubing +1

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

yeah i was debating between the black chrome tubing or glass tubes. im glad i went with the metal.

bladd12001 3 Builds 2 points 14 months ago

First build and going with the custom water cooling loop? you are brave, man. +1

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

Thank you it just took patience

Caminon 1 Build 2 points 14 months ago

those gpu prices simply hurt to look at

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

I got it on a black friday sale for 750 so the prices here dont reflect what I paid. also if you google search "1080 msrp" go to the microsoft store link they are selling 1080's for 600-700 when they have them in stock.

Camranatic101 2 Builds 2 points 14 months ago


hi_im_snowman 1 point 14 months ago

Wish you had more pics!! I think you've done a kick-*** job here, op! And wow, that rad is TIGHT up against that shroud, yikes! I think the color scheme is quite unique and interesting, kudos on the aesthetics mate.


greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

I can get more pics. It has zero clearance maybe half a mm but it doesnt seem to effect cooling at all, but i wanted to keep the 3.5in drive for storage and also keep the shroud so had to do some cutting. And thank you

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

I uploaded some more pics, i included measurements for the lack of space.

Super.Craig 1 point 14 months ago

First build custom loop? man you're gifted and brave. +1 for the sleek and sexy build!

greenjust submitter 1 Build 2 points 14 months ago

First custom loop and first build. thank you very much.

RollingSushi 1 Build 1 point 14 months ago

Sick AF! For your delid did you glue the ihs back on? How hard is it to cut brass tubing? This is a beauty!

greenjust submitter 1 Build 2 points 14 months ago

yes i glued it back on using permatex ULTRA BLACK i put the link to amazon below. Just cut the very end of the nozzle just enough to make the smallest hole then put a small line around 95% of it like the stock glue was then i used a spudger to spread it around. Cutting the brass tubing wasn't too hard i have experience doing plumbing work the big difference is this tubing is much thinner then plumbing so you have to be careful not to over tighten the cutter and deform the tube. I got all of it from XSPC they have a full kit for convenience permatex

delidding tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVYL61Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zetash 2 Builds 1 point 13 months ago

Did you have to drill holes in the shroud to mount the temperature LCDs?

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

yes I cut them out using a dremel then cleaned it up with a file. XSPC also sells a drive bay adapter if you don't want to cut into your case.

Zetash 2 Builds 1 point 13 months ago

One hole or two? And I'm guessing it's laying flush with some 3M adhesive tape?

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

It's two rectangles and no 3m tape they have tabs that hold them in place cut them out then filed a spot for the tabs.

AlexDMV 1 point 13 months ago

Wow man. This is your first build?? Props to you. I have yet to build my first pc but I would never be brave enough to go with a custom water cooling loop. Good for you hrother.

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

Try it, just take your time. you dont have to start with metal tubing, you can do soft or PETG/acrylic. The best advice I can give is be patient if you are getting frustrated take a five minute break and come back to that bend you cant get right or that tube you keep cutting short. And buy extra tubing just in case i got 4 meters and only ended up using 1 my buddy did his PC in PETG and the same he bought 4 meters thinking he would use 2 and ended up using all of it (straight cuts are ALOT easier then trying to get that bend just right, props to the guys doing custom bends). for straight shots you can always cut it shorter but you cant make it grow so give yourself some space to work with if you think you need a 4 inch tube cut a 5 inch tube then triple check where it needs to get cut. when I was done I had a bunch of short pieces that I would just slowly cut off until I got it just the right length.

AlexDMV 1 point 13 months ago

Hey man... I am looking for a mobo and I am deciding between the one you used and this one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W06N29224&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

I can get the gigabyte one for the same price as the asus one, so I’m not sure which one to go for. What do you think?

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

I would say it depends on how many USB ports you need and looks. It appears that the two yellow USB ports on the gigabyte card is for USB headphones. I just use the red USB port for the headphones. I have 3 sensors, a headset, keyboard mouse, and a USB hub for peripherals. For RGB thru ASUS its actually GRB and requires aura sync capable led strips and fans. (i controll my fan and pump thru the corsair commander pro software, and my internal LEDs thru ASUS Aura.) on a technical aspect it looks like ASUS supports higher RAM freqs but I think Gen 8 processors only support up to 2600MHZ (someone please correct me if im wrong i would love to know.) I personally like the ASUS Z370-F I dont use any of the front panel connections where possible. I run 6 PWM devices and that would just cluster the front. Things I dont like about the ASUS board. the Aura sync (flipping RGB to GRB is stupid) they put the front panel Audio connector on the opposite side of the rest of the front panel connectors, the I/O shield doesnt seem to easily line up with the motherboard (that might be my case im not sure) the placement of the PWM headers are all over the place and seems random so if you want to use them you will have fan cables running all over. Things I like, I like that it has the heat sync for the m.2 with thermal pad included. I like the looks, the USB 3.0 header is coming off the side instead of straight up, has 2 USB 2.0 headers, lots of USB ports on the back, reinforced PCIE slots.

AlexDMV 1 point 13 months ago

Okay so basically it depends on personal preference? Sorry, some of the stuff you said went over my head. I will need usb ports for a keyboard, mouse, headset, and headset stand, so I think both boards should suit my needs just fine. I’m not sure though... I am leaning towards the ASUS one, but do you have any recommendations? Which one do you recomend me to get. Sorry lol, I’m really indecisive.

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

what exactly are you going to use this computer for? i use mine for 3d design, gaming, VR. Are you a power user for bandwidth? Do you have a dedicated Ethernet cable you are running? Most importantly what is your budget range you are looking to spend especially on just the motherboard. I personally like the look of the ASUS better but that's because it fits the color scheme I was going for. For your stuff I would say go with what fits the theme of your build they both look like good boards. If looks isn't a concern save some money and go with the gigabyte. I personally have not had any problems with my ASUS board. another one you might want to look into is the Z370-E since it has on board WIFI if you don't need high speed low latency internet or if the internet in your house isn't the best. I think looks wise the E and F are the same (don't quote me on that) And for your graphics card if you're looking to save money and don't mind waiting for it to become in stock check this link would save you some money. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/d/asus-rog-strix-geforce-gtx-1080-gaming-graphics-card/937mjjkqzwff?activetab=pivot%3atechspecstab

AlexDMV 1 point 13 months ago

Thanks man! I'm going to go with the ASUS. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for internet yet. I have never used ethernet but I am hoping I can get that figured out. If not do you think a wifi adapter for the mobo would be good? Is the built in wifi on the motherboard good? Or does it suck. Also, I will be using my build for heavy gaming.

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 13 months ago

The F doesn't have onboard WIFI, and I ran an ethernet cable. The Z370-E has onboard WIFI I never looked into it so I dont know what standard. And when I looked yesterday that link has GPU's instock if you are a student or military they have reduced prices. If you are trying to do heavy gaming I assume you are meaning online, I would personally run a Ethernet cable (CAT6 or CAT5 depending on your internet speed) if that is possible, also depending on length it would also be cheaper then buying a WIFI card. If you cant run Ethernet I would still get the Z370-F and then buy a WIFI expansion card.

Emanresu15 2 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

How is this your first build, dude? This looks amazing! You seriously have me thinking you're a seasoned builder in disguise with that lovely tubing and the sweet sweet custom cables (not sure if you did them yourself or bought them from Cablemod or something) and all the absolutely STUNNING lighting, too! Seriously, WOW! This makes me want to cry it's so beautiful, congratulations on the build man.

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 5 months ago

Thank you. The cables we're bought from cablemod it's cheaper that way I don't have the tools to build them and would have had to buy it. Lol it is my first time building a desktop computer but I work on electronics for a living. And I like building things just take patience, looking to build a Plex server next.

Emanresu15 2 Builds 1 point 5 months ago

Well cool! If you like building things that take patience, even though you already have custom cables try making some yourself, it's really fun.

Edit: also good luck with the server!

greenjust submitter 1 Build 1 point 5 months ago

It was just more economical to do it this way. In the future I may build more cables but to buy the proper quality tools for a one off job was expensive. And thank you I appreciate it ill need it for this server.